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#41
Here are a couple of images of my making a graduated dial for my Fray mill. I used the same mandrel to both turn the OD and hold the dial to engrave the graduations. I later used figure stamps to add the numbers.

First & only time I ever mounted a rotary table on a lathe. Never ever seen it done before. BTW, that's my old SB 14 1/2" lathe I traded in on my Logan.

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#42
possible the knurler was set up crooked, which would make the knurls fit cocked against the part.
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

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#43
(12-06-2014, 09:44 PM)PixMan Wrote:
(12-04-2014, 08:06 AM)TomG Wrote: Darren,

I think I posted some info on wheel grades a while back, but I can't remember where. Chin

That knurl pattern you were wondering about is caused by one knurl having more pressure on it than the other, which results in one diamond pattern being deeper than the other. The clamp knurling tool I'm currently making all but eliminates that problem and also helps prevent double knurls.

Tom

Tom.

I tend to disagree with you on the knurling problem. The way I see it there is cutting from both knurls, though one cut in deeper coming from the left, the other cut in deeper coming from the right because right in the middle it looks even.

I have no idea what caused it, but I'd be surprised if it could be duplicated. Big Grin

Whatever caused it, it is definitely screwed up and like you say, likely hard to duplicate.

Tom
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#44
(12-06-2014, 10:02 PM)Dr Stan Wrote: Here are a couple of images of my making a graduated dial for my Fray mill.  I used the same mandrel to both turn the OD and hold the dial to engrave the graduations.  I later used figure stamps to add the numbers.

First & only time I ever mounted a rotary table on a lathe.  Never ever seen it done before.  BTW, that's my old SB 14 1/2" lathe I traded in on my Logan.

I can't say I've ever seen a rotary table on the lathe either, but it is an interesting setup.

Why the lathe and not the mill? An axial cutter would have allowed you to use the quill to cut the graduations. That's how I cut them on my carriage stop.

Tom
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#45
Tom,

I used the lathe so I would not have to swing the mill head at an angle. It has a BP head, but does not have the worm & worm wheel to adjust tram. It's a matter of "precision" use of a soft faced mallet which makes it much more difficult than the normal turret mill.

Stan
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#46
So far I have had no luck on finding out the taper of the spindle.  I'm hoping that there will be wheel hubs that I can pick up from other manufacturers that will fit.  For example, this Chevalier looks virtually identical to a Boyar-Schultz 6x18 that I have seen.

I have made up a quick sketch based on the measurements I was able to get with my calipers.  I'm hoping someone will recognise it.


.jpg   618 Spindle Taper.JPG (Size: 24.32 KB / Downloads: 86)

I'm sure the large end is ø1.000 but I have based the drawing on what I got over several attempts...

Oh - Ken, you were correct.  I can use 8" wheels (that much was in the manual).
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#47
Standard fare, I think. Looks like the taper on my Boyer-Schultz, but I could double check if you want. Sopko adapters, at $60 each - and you'll need two or three to avoid lots of truing between wheel swaps.

Mine will use 8" wheels but I have 7's mounted because they are/were cheaper. One of them has worn to 6" and still produces a nice finish although I had some burning problems a while back, might be the cause.

Search for "sopko". (Links added - I see that the 8" wheel adapters are $90)

http://www.travers.com/64791-53-111-920?...53-111-920
http://www.travers.com/84648-53-111-968?...53-111-968
http://www.travers.com/84650-53-111-900?...53-111-900
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#48
Thanks Sunset. Fortunately I have already made up puller and the pin wrench will also be an easy job.

Besides $30, what is the difference between a 7" and an 8" adaptor? I cannot see anything in the first link that suggests that adaptor is a 7" one. My guess is that the 7" doesn't have the balancing weights, as Ken had mentioned this previously. Also, what is the that poking through the nut/washer in the picture??
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#49
The 8" says it's 3" dia, the 7" says 2.25". Notice that there are left hand and right hand models. Pretty sure mine is left hand, wheel clockwise, target plate on the left of the table.

(I just noticed it says 3" T.P.F - I hope that doesn't mean taper per foot. Check some other sites, might be a Travers typo.)

Which picture? The adapter is slotted, the washer is keyed. Are you looking at the keyway?

http://www.travers.com/3-diameter-wheel-...d%20297970
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#50
Mine is LH thread, CW rotation.

Amazing. I look at the picture now and I see the keyway. Before it looked like it was raised and not recessed. Interesting how the brain works!
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