Help wiring a 220v motor to a switch

[Shawn]

When I got the shaper home and plugged her in it would only run when I pushed in the rectangular box (is this a magnetic contact-or?) below the off/on button. The PO didn't have 220v in his shop and wired the new motor into the switch himself. I look in the switch box and it's like a dog watching TV ?. I was hoping someone could see what isn't wired up correctly from these pictures. I have ordered a 220v paddle switch but it won't be in for another week. The motor is also running in reverse?

The wires going into the left side of the box come from the plug, the right side is the motor. The shaper was previously wired for a three phase motor.











Thanks in advance for the help

Shawn.

[dallen]

what you have is a magnetic contactor with integral start stop buttons, looks like it may have a 230 volt coil in it but not sure. If you google the part number you should be able to find a wiring diagram as to how its suppose to be wired,

it also has a set of overload heaters that may or may not be too big/small for the motor, you will need to google the maker an size a number which is on the heater element to find out.

heavy duty looking contactor, looks like a Nema Class 4 setup but not sure. When you get it wired up right and push the start button make sure it snaps in and doesn't buzz, a buzzing/chattering/vibrating noise indicates bad contact or a dirty coil that isn't letting the contactor pull in all the way.

DA

[Sunset Machine]

Can't tell for sure. That might be your dogs breakfast in there.

Does this magnetic contactor pull in (and stay in) when you hit the start button? It kind of sounds like your control circuit is powerless; you might need to move a wire. He may be attempting to draw power from the missing leg of the old three phase (that would be the wire to move).

Also, the overloads (reset button) are in that control circuit, are they closed? The single phase motor draws more current and possibly tripped it.

When happy, the control circuit applies power to the contactor's coil. Sometimes the coil burns out. See if voltage is present across it (or check continuity with the power off).

Pull a motor lead free while you mess with this. You probably don't want surprises. As to the reverse, look on the motor tag for instructions. Most can be reversed, not all. Some you have to open up, cut wires, reweld. Most of the time you just swap two wires (they can be brought out to a drum switch for fwd/rev). While you're there, check for proper voltage connections.

If you get jammed, seek an industrial electrician. Most residential sparky's won't have a clue, never having even seen one before.

[Shawn]

The contractor does not pull in when I hit the start button, nothing happens unless I push the contractor in manually, then it starts. Might just be better to wait for the new switch and find something else to do in the shop. Like clean it : )

[hermetic]

Shawn, my shaper has a set of safety switches on the doors and belt guards, all have to be closed and in place before it will start. Has it had a remote stop fitted which has been removed, but the link not put back in? If it runs ok when you push the contactor in, it could be just a burnt out coil. You need a sparky to do some basic testing, is there circuit through the overloads? have you found and pushed the reset on the overloads in case it has dropped out of latch in transit. You have done the basics right, now you need a tester with a bit more knowledge. If I was closer, I would pop in and sort it!
Phil.
UK

[dallen]

the motor may be running in reverse but the shaper may be running correctly, slow on the forward stroke and fast on the return.

DA

[Shawn]

The shaper is what's running in reverse actually, I'm not sure what the motor is doing. I'm just going to wait for the switch I ordered to arrive, it's going to be installed either way so I will just be patient.

Cheers
Shawn