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[DaveH]

The moment you all have been waiting for ................... pics of my welding

   

   

I still get "missed bits" I just go back and fill them in

   

   

To me these welds  seem a whole lot better. Using 1/8" rod also for some reason seemed easier Set at 115A

I'm beginning to realize in the past I did not have it hot enough.

Getting better

DaveH

[dallen]

keep the position flat, turn the machine up somemore, and run stringer beads instead of weaving, hold the rod as close as possible without it sticking.

What type rod (7018) are you using?

[DaveH]

"Keep the position flat" no idea what that means David if you could explain please  

'Stringer beads" I can guess   just long straight single bead  (no weaving)

 
DaveH

[DaveH]

(02-14-2015, 09:09 AM)dallen Wrote: What type rod  (7018) are you using?

They are called Vitamax (Afrox) E6013 no idea what the E6013 means

DaveH

[DaveH]

David I did find this:


difference between 6013 and 7018 electrodes


by: Ganesan Ramasamy





As per ASME Sec II Part C, the smaw electrodes are designed based on flux coating.


6013 - Rutile coated electrode with potassium silicate


7018 - basic coated with Iron powder with potassium silicate.


Normally 6013 electrodes conatains more hydrogen content in weld metal. Because of this 6013 electrodes are used only in genral structural and fabrication works.


But we can use 7018 electrodes for pressure vessels, boilers, ship building and heavy structurals due to low hydrogen content in weld metal.




Also I have been told the E6013 are easier to use for the "idiot welder" like me

DaveH

[dallen]

Flat as in laying on a table.

Stringer beads= long straight beads no weave

the first two numbers are the tensile strength of the metal ie 70 equals 70,000 psi tensile strength, where as 6013 equals 60,000 psi tensile, the 1 is position a 1 indicates and all position rod. the last number indicates the flux make up.

6013 is a good all purpose rod that doesn't have to be kept in and oven after opening up (I have some that's over 30 years old and still welds good)

when running a weave pass like you were doing its easy for the slag to run around the puddle and cause slag inclusions like those in your weld, Take some scraps and run some beads on it, look at the beads after running each one remember what you did when welding both the good ones and the bad ones. most of the time its the little things that cause problems like slag inclusions.

Almost forgot, get in a comfortable position, its hard to weld when your shaking.

DA

[f350ca]

Looking good Dave. Those welds should hold up fine. Think your moving ahead a little too fast, slow your advance a little and let it burn in. The edges of the weld show occasional under cut, (where the weld hasn't filled in the crater the arc created). In theory there should be none, but for a hack like me I like to see a little, lets me know Im getting good penetration and not just laying weld on top of the base.
Straight stringers as Dallen suggested are good, definitely give it a try, I have a hard time keeping them perfectly straight, especially where I need multiple passes to build up enough weld on a fillet.

[DaveH]

Thanks Greg,
These welds do seem a lot better than I have done before. Still not pretty but at least they should hold (I hope )
 
DaveH

[stevec]

Hey Bud, looks good!
As I've said before " if you can't weld well, weld lots"  It's a quote I've read before and it makes sense.

For guys like us when we're not welding day in and day out it's hard to learn from others  (as in welding school) it's also hard to experiment with different rods  if you have to buy a box at a time only to find that three rods in it's not for you.
I've found some stuff that works for me but even so, I have to do a little bit of welding to get "warmed up" so to speak.
Good job bud, your doing great!

Steve

 

[DaveH]

Thanks Steve   flattery will get you every where especially with me   

I just have to stop rushing it  - no idea why I am in such a rush   
 
DaveH