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08-15-2014, 06:37 AM
(This post was last modified: 08-15-2014, 06:42 AM by stevec.)
(08-14-2014, 08:04 AM)DaveH Wrote: HI,
I'm going to have to weld a 1" thick splitting wedge on one end of the beam and something similar for the cylinder on the other end.
Should I or do I need to put a chamfer on the 1" thick piece of steel?
This shows what I mean.
DaveH
Dave,
By " something similar for the cylinder on the other end."
I hope you don't mean a wedge also on the end of the cylinder rod!
I make my "chamfer" about 45° each side and I make sure the "pusher" on the end of the cylinder doesn't quite touch the "point" of the wedge, it tends do dull the point with time.
On the first splitter I made, I just welded the wedge on the top of the H beam. but within a short time I realized that the upper surface of the H beam wasn't strong enough, both for the pusher slide and the wedge. So I cut off the wedge , removed the pusher slide and straightened the top flange of the H beam with a sledge hammer.
Then I welded on a 1/2" plate to the flange, re-did the pusher slide and welded the wedge back on.
I doubt if you'll need to do all that but doing as Greg suggested would be recommended.
We never seem to have to repair/rework anything we build "too strong" .
Another option would be to weld in a "socket" in the H beam that the wedge could slip into and be pinned there. It would allow for a "cross" style replacement wedge as I did on my new splitter, that would split your wood into 4 pieces in one pass , but I think I'm going beyond your requirements. 
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Hi Steve,
I like the idea of a socket - multiple splitting wedges/ interchangeability.
I just can't see 10 tons ripping the wedge off the top face of the 'I' beam (famous last words) and my crap welding of course.
Now in your case Steve you mounted the cylinder's centre line 6" - 8" above the top face of the beam, mine will only be 1.5" above the face of the beam.
That makes quite a bit of difference.
Someone said - give me a large enough lever and I'll move the world. 
DaveH
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08-15-2014, 06:16 PM
(This post was last modified: 08-15-2014, 06:17 PM by stevec.)
Dave, it's 6.5 " and your definitely right, at 10 tons 1.5" above the top face of the beam you should be good to go, no problems.
I keep comparing apples to oranges, sorry.
Everyone makes mistakes, even the guy who said "give me a large enough lever and I'll move the world" forgot about the fulcrum.
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stevec (08-16-2014)
For those who are wondering,
Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world.
Archimedes
He still forgot "and a place to stand"
DaveH
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I haven't forgot or abandoned this, just got busy with other things. 
DaveH
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After a timely 'kick up the butt' from Darren, it's time to get on with it.
It is not as I haven't done anything - I've been thinking  mostly how to build it without welding  Failed at that as well 
I have noticed on all low force log splitters (under 10 tons) the splitting wedge widens quite sharply obviously to help split the wood apart, so I may copy the idea.
Anyone have some comments good, bad or ugly.
DaveH
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EdK (01-17-2015)
(01-17-2015, 10:28 AM)DaveH Wrote: ...
Anyone have some comments good, bad or ugly.
Yes - learn how to weld.
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01-17-2015, 12:38 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-17-2015, 12:42 PM by vtsteam.)
Dave, I've split wood with an axe, maul, and hydraulic log splitter -- which I use a lot now. Mine is has a straight taper. And so do mauls and splitting wedges. It seems to me that when I early on sharpened/ground an axe to a hollow taper, it stuck much more easily.
No one has also suggested it so far, but there is a third possibility for attaching your thin (1") splitting wedge, and that is butting a longer piece of it to the web, past the end of the flange. It makes for a shorter length of beam, or a longer capacity of log.
I think it would give a thin wedge like yours more side to side (angular) support than butting on top of the flange. Especially if some support cleats were added from the web, below the flange) I can imagine that a wedge as narrow as yours may tend to bend/fatigue side to side after a time.
My splitter is quite different actually. There is no wedge at the end. The wedge is on a carriage that the ram pushes along the splitter beam, just like the ways and carriage on a machine tool. The end of the splitter is a flat plate (about 1" if I recall correctly) welded to flanges and webs, both. It has a short ring (from pipe) welded end on to dig into the butt end of the log - a dog, of sorts.
The carriage wedge is quite broad and hollow, and though seemingly cast, I Imagine could be built up from plate, as well.
Also, It sounds like you have a welder, but don't have confidence in your welds. I'm sure if you practiced a little with scrap, that could change.
Anyway looking forward to your progress!
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