[HELP] kalamazoo boat anchor or band saw

[mr green wilson]

I recently purchased a Kalamazoo band saw model P43 probably pretty old three phase. Converted it to single phase same hp motor same speed. i refurbished the hydraulic ram (it works great) replaced the blade brush. oiled the moving parts. Here's my problem I purchased a 14 tooth carbon steel blade (probably not a good decision). I'm retired money is tight. The machine is running as slow as i can get it ,53 FPM and the arm spring tension is set to position #5. Anyway i lower the arm using the hydraulics and it starts cutting i control the rate with the hydraulics. The blade stalls i lift the arm and lower it back onto the piece and it growls like a dog and strips the teeth off the blade for about 2 inches. (I didn't drop the arm i lowered it very slowly) it looks like the blade loads up and a piece if a chip catches in the kerf and jams tight and stalls the blade when i lower the blade the teeth catch on the jammed in chip and the stripping of teeth starts. i am cutting a piece of 1.5" round hot roll steel. In my shop one blade has to last a long time i need to figure this out before i invest in a bi-metal blade. Any and all advice and help would be appreciated. I know this is simple but i can't see the trees for the forest.
Mr Green Wilson
Perkins@twc.com

[PixMan]

Sounds more like a problem with the length of engagement (how many teeth in the cut) rather than the saw itself. Ideally, you should have only 3 to 5 teeth in a cut if at all possible. Rake and set are also important features of a saw blade. I like the Lenox "Classic Bi-metal" blades myself, for general purpose work.

I have a much smaller 7x12 MSC-branded saw and have two different blades of it. The "fine" one is a 10-14 mixed tooth bi-metal blade, the other is a 4-6 mixed tooth. I've stalled the 10-14 going through some 4" diameter of 4150 annealed, so I switched to the better choice 4-6 and it worked fine.

I understand the limited resources problem, but if you can ever swing a 4-6 or 3-4 mixed tooth bi-metal blade you wouldn't regret it. What size is the blade in length and width?

BTW,...WELCOME! Pictures of the saw or it never happened! ;)

[TomG]

(01-20-2014, 09:22 PM)mr green wilson Wrote: I recently purchased a Kalamazoo band saw model P43 probably pretty old three phase. Converted it to single phase same hp motor same speed. i refurbished the hydraulic ram (it works great) replaced the blade brush. oiled the moving parts. Here's my problem I purchased a 14 tooth carbon steel blade (probably not a good decision). I'm retired money is tight. The machine is running as slow as i can get it ,53 FPM and the arm spring tension is set to position #5. Anyway i lower the arm using the hydraulics and it starts cutting i control the rate with the hydraulics. The blade stalls i lift the arm and lower it back onto the piece and it growls like a dog and strips the teeth off the blade for about 2 inches. (I didn't drop the arm i lowered it very slowly) it looks like the blade loads up and a piece if a chip catches in the kerf and jams tight and stalls the blade when i lower the blade the teeth catch on the jammed in chip and the stripping of teeth starts. i am cutting a piece of 1.5" round hot roll steel. In my shop one blade has to last a long time i need to figure this out before i invest in a bi-metal blade. Any and all advice and help would be appreciated. I know this is simple but i can't see the trees for the forest.
Mr Green Wilson
Perkins@twc.com

What alloy is the steel? It sounds like it might be hardening up on you, or maybe it's hard already. If its mild steel, you should be able to run it at 100 SFPM with no trouble.

Tom

[f350ca]

Have you been able to make any other cuts with the machine and this blade?

[stevec]

Do you use any cutting fluid/mist?

[mr green wilson]

(01-20-2014, 10:25 PM)PixMan Wrote: Sounds more like a problem with the length of engagement (how many teeth in the cut) rather than the saw itself. Ideally, you should have only 3 to 5 teeth in a cut if at all possible. Rake and set are also important features of a saw blade. I like the Lenox "Classic Bi-metal" blades myself, for general purpose work.

I have a much smaller 7x12 MSC-branded saw and have two different blades of it. The "fine" one is a 10-14 mixed tooth bi-metal blade, the other is a 4-6 mixed tooth. I've stalled the 10-14 going through some 4" diameter of 4150 annealed, so I switched to the better choice 4-6 and it worked fine.

I understand the limited resources problem, but if you can ever swing a 4-6 or 3-4 mixed tooth bi-metal blade you wouldn't regret it. What size is the blade in length and width?

BTW,...WELCOME! Pictures of the saw or it never happened! ;)

The blade is 10'5" long by 3/4 wide 14TPI. cutting 1 1/4 dia HRS round.

[mr green wilson]

(01-21-2014, 08:23 AM)stevec Wrote: Do you use any cutting fluid/mist?

No, I just purchased it last saturday. It didn't have a cooling or mist system on it.

[mr green wilson]

(01-21-2014, 02:15 AM)f350ca Wrote: Have you been able to make any other cuts with the machine and this blade?

It had a bi-metal blade on it . It wasn't in the best condition and it was a ten tooth blade. I was cutting a piece of 1/4 X 2" wide flat stock and after about half way throught it the blade stalled and stripped the teeth on it. The stock was HRS. I was cutting the piece laying it flat at 53 FPM.

[mr green wilson]

(01-21-2014, 12:10 AM)TomG Wrote:

(01-20-2014, 09:22 PM)mr green wilson Wrote: I recently purchased a Kalamazoo band saw model P43 probably pretty old three phase. Converted it to single phase same hp motor same speed. i refurbished the hydraulic ram (it works great) replaced the blade brush. oiled the moving parts. Here's my problem I purchased a 14 tooth carbon steel blade (probably not a good decision). I'm retired money is tight. The machine is running as slow as i can get it ,53 FPM and the arm spring tension is set to position #5. Anyway i lower the arm using the hydraulics and it starts cutting i control the rate with the hydraulics. The blade stalls i lift the arm and lower it back onto the piece and it growls like a dog and strips the teeth off the blade for about 2 inches. (I didn't drop the arm i lowered it very slowly) it looks like the blade loads up and a piece if a chip catches in the kerf and jams tight and stalls the blade when i lower the blade the teeth catch on the jammed in chip and the stripping of teeth starts. i am cutting a piece of 1.5" round hot roll steel. In my shop one blade has to last a long time i need to figure this out before i invest in a bi-metal blade. Any and all advice and help would be appreciated. I know this is simple but i can't see the trees for the forest.
Mr Green Wilson
Perkins@twc.com

What alloy is the steel? It sounds like it might be hardening up on you, or maybe it's hard already. If its mild steel, you should be able to run it at 100 SFPM with no trouble.


Tom

Tom,
The stock i was cutting was HRS flat and round stock. The teeth stripped using a bi-metal 10 toothed blade cutting 1/4" X 2" flat stock. The teeth stripped using a new carbon steel 14 toothed blade cutting 1" round stock.Speed with both blades was 53 FPM.

[stevec]

I wouldn't consider using my 9x17 without cutting fluid.