drip oilers
#11
think I've decided on using a screw in filler plug which will screw into the brass collar that you see silver soldered to the top in this pic

[Image: filler-hole.jpg]

now I just need to make a couple thumb screws to fit.
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

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#12
Looks quite neat David.
You do know you can't see the oil level through that "tube". Just thought I would mention it Rotfl Rotfl Rotfl
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Dave
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#13
Yea I know, but the glass is going to be a little on the expensive side with the outfit that I've found that has the stuff in short lengths also having a 45 dollar minimum charge so I need to figure out what else I can use or somewhere else to get them from.

I can drill a view port in it for you if it will helpBig GrinBig GrinBig Grin. Actually no more then I'll probably use the shaper I could just fill them up at the start every time I use it and it would probably last thru the run, things are going to hold over half a cup of oil.


DA
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#14
Once I figure out how they work (i.e. what stops the oil running through as fast as gravity will pull it), I want to make a set for my lathe and probably my shaper too.
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
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#15
Thats easy enough to figure out, or maybe its not. anyway a photo always helps me.

This is part, and the tip size is what controls the flow. this is the valve that opens and closes the oil passage and controls how fast the oil will flow.

[Image: casted-some-brass-round-sto.jpg]

The tip size controls how large the drops are. the original you see in the photo below has a tip of about and 1/8 inch in diameter with a hole of about 1/16" didn't measure it just grabbed a drill that would slide thru.

[Image: metering-tube01.jpg]

these little lever handles are what opens and closes the oil passage.

[Image: lifters-almost-complete.jpg]
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

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#16
Thanks Dave - that is much clearer now.
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
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#17
your welcome, one hint. Use standard taps and dies, don't do like i did which was to copy a 22 pitch thread on the stem tube where the sight glass part screws on. if I had of been smart I would of used something like a 9/16 fine thread instead, I did use 3/8 X 24 on the top of the stems.
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

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#18
here's the second of the two oilers I just finished silver soldering the bottom on to the stem and used a piece of 2 inch od stainless tube to do the mock up with, I still have a couple of steps to do plus make the two nuts that go on top of the stems. And before I forget buy the glass tubes so they will look pretty.

[Image: fit-up-on-shaper0002.jpg]
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

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#19
Dallen,

Just a thought. You can get clear polycarbonite, PVC, plastic, etc. tubes from McMasters - Clear tubing , other suppliers, or even e-bay for very little.

-Ron
11" South Bend lathe - Wells-Index 860C mill - 16" Queen City Shaper
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#20
I ordered the pyrex tubes that I need to finish this project today, will post some photos as soon as I get the parts that I ordered.

DA
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