[HELP] Welding Table Thickness

[EdK]

What would you guys recommend for a welding table top thickness? I'll probably go with a table size of 36" x 24" or maybe 36" x 30".

Thanks,
Ed

[Mayhem]

Mine is 1/2" thick and I don't think I would need anything thicker.

[f350ca]

Mine was given to me, doubt if I could afford to buy it. Its actually cast iron, about 1/2 thick with webbing and cast in sockets for the legs. About 30 x 36 (I could measure it) a heck of a lift for two people. Its mounted on steel castors that actually swivel and roll as there supposed to do. Being cast iron weld spatter doesn't seem to stick, a rub with the sanding disk from time to time keeps it in pristine. Only drawbacks are you can't tack parts to it and the webbing makes it awkward to clamp along the sides.
My previous bench had grating for the top. Made it out of catwalk grating, 1 x 1/8 steel bars on edge about an inch apart supported at the end and middle with angle iron. I liked the design, dirt fell through so it never needed wiped, you could tack to it, clamp anywhere on it by fishing the welding clamps through the spaces and it was strong. Would still be using it if the current one hadn't come along. It will go back in service in the blacksmith shop.
How thick? I'd go at least 1/2 as Mayhem did if you go plate but would probably go with grating again if I needed to build one. The grating is probably a lot cheaper than 1/2 plate.

[EdK]

What material would be the best, or maybe it doesn't matter.

ASTM A514 AR200 Abrasion Resistant Steel Plate
ASTM A36 Hot Rolled Steel Plate
Pickled and Oiled Steel Plate (huh?)

Ed

[Mayhem]

I guess that depends upon what you want to do. As Greg mentioned, sometimes you want to tack something to the table (handy for bending). Mine is plain old garden variety steel plate, which has a skin on it. The pickled and oiled plate has the skin removed and oiled to prevent rust.

Initially I had planned to buy a small section of plate and then several strips to allow access for clamps. The size was determined by a frame that I had found. A family friend worked for a laser/flame cutting company and when I told him what I wanted he came back with a solid piece with slots cut out. The best part was he got it for free. He said it would have cost about $200 had I had to pay.

Splatter does stick to it but often you can knock it off with a scraper. Anti-splatter works well but a quick lick with a flap disk also works a treat. My magnetic earth also means I can attach it to the underside of the table.

I've just written this and then thought that you have probably already read it in my post on my welding table!

[TomG]

A shop I used to work in had one 4" x 6' x 1" thick. We used it for everything from fixturing parts to beating things into submission. The 1" thickness was nice for the mass, because you didn't need to worry about it moving around when you were working on it.

Tom

[dallen]

this is going to probably sound stupid but make it as thick as you can afford so like Tom says its got some mass for when you need to hammer on it

[arvidj]

Mine is a 1/2 inch ~53 x ~53 not necessarily square cold rolled drop from Discount Steel many years ago. The term 'nothing special' certainly applies.

[EdK]

(09-17-2013, 08:40 PM)Mayhem Wrote: ...

I've just written this and then thought that you have probably already read it in my post on my welding table!

You're right, I probably did read it at one time but it's either been erased from my memory or buried too deep to find it.

Ed

[mattinker]

Hi,
This maybe not suited to your plans, but I like Aluminium for small stuff, it is good for the earth and splatter doesn't stick to it. I have used 1/8" thick Al over steel.

Regards, Matthew