[IDEA] Foundry machine squeeze jolt

[oldgoaly]

Well some of you may know I'm a bit gimpy. bad shoulders and hammering is not fun! Neither is ramming up sand in a flask! I had bought a couple Habril paint shakers for 11$ at a auction. One was in working order the other didn't so I stripped it down and have used some parts for other projects. That leaves this bucket holder, looks like the making of a Jolt! Having not operated one I can only speculate the force they apply, This has a acme thread on each side and a cogged belt to drive them, I' thinking a 1/2 drive electric drill with variable speed might work? Anyone made something like this????

   

The other thought is to adapt some plates to the Fly press, I hear they are quite the thing in Merry ole England!

   

[Rickabilly]

Hello,
Now that is an interesting flypress, Three legs? and cast directly onto the table/base. As a self confessed Flypress geek I need to see more, also any cool tooling you might have for it.

It's only fair you showed me yours so...
   
A big and a little "Sweeney and Blocksidge" and the one on the four legged cast iron stand is a Denbigh, the Denbigh makes some big force with more than twice the ball weight as the big Blocksidge.

You seem to be missing your "stop nut" does the shaft have the fine vee thread for a stop nut or only the big square thread, most fly presses have both threads but I've not seen three cast legs either so...#

As for th original question, I used a pneumatic palm nailer for certain hammering jobs for a while and might be some form of solution for your needs, the idea is the nailer uses normal nails that slip up the tube and stay by use of a magnet, you then push the nail tip against the surface you wish to nail it into and with a little force the pneumatic cylinder is activated hammering the nail in much the same way as a pneumatic chisel, but the force is controlled by how hard you push the nailer rather than by a trigger or other controller, Mine came from Axminster tools and was a Chinese import, it saved my back of a few miles worth of wear but it stayed with the business I left.

This address will show you something much the same,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silverline-Air...3f1cbc2736

Best regards
Rick

[oldgoaly]

It's a no name most likely American made, no fine thread or a stop nut, only got one small die. Only die set I made was a cheap 90* brake from angle iron. Despite being of crude design and low budget it does brake nice radius edges. For 25$ it was cheap, the 3 guys left at this machine shop helped e load it, I bought them lunch and a few beers(cost twice as much as the press)

   
checking it out on a scrap piece

   
she's got legs....3 of them

   
ram and it's gibs

   
nice threads

   

the die that came with it.

   

[Rickabilly]

The ram and especially the gib/guide design is unique, I've seen square, round and most commonly dovetail rams but never one like yours,

I love the "three legged" deal

and surely that's an optical illusion, with the person in the background either being really small or the press being bigger than a Volkswagon.

Also with through slots for tool mounting where most have tee slots.

If you want to fit a stop nut, it is easy enough, you just need to turn a fine thread over the shaft (yes even over the course square thread) and then make a split nut with clamping bolt to lock it in place, I'll gladly send through photos if you want, the stop nut takes a pretty brutal machine and gives it enough control to make it into a proper precision tool.

Regards
Rick

[oldgoaly]

That person behind the press is my son, he is 6' 3" , I think the gap is 18" in height, 12" from the ram to the housing, the legs are 32" or 34" long. If you don't mind posting a pic of the fine nut depth stop, I'd like to put that on my list of things to do, just in 4' of that press are 2 big projects, a Cannedy-Otto camel back DP and a50 pound Mayer Bros power hammer

   

[Rickabilly]

It looks about right now, as long as you have a lathe big enough to turn the thread, fitting a stop nut really is only about a day's worth of time, but it'll transform the machine so I think it is worth it. it'll let you set a depth on your press brake dies and get any number of identical pressings,

I had a setup for crimping a seal into the end recess of a shuttle valve it took a 5 ton press to crimp the edges in to hold the seal disc but the end use of the shuttle meant that the shuttle length was critical within 0.005" with the stop nut it was just a one strike deal, 120 pieces per hour, load stamp, load stamp.....

Another time it was stamping numbers into a measuring tool, with all the punches ground to the same length, simply fit them into the holder and stamp for an identical, square and even number each time.

I know what it's like to have a whole load of projects and no time, but at least you have a good supply of classic machines to restore, so with a flypress and a power hammer is it forging or sheet metal that you're into, personally I like doing compound contours in sheet, that is custom car body work so I have a load of tools and dies for doing just that on the fly press, I also have a Trumph (European Pullmax) with thumbnail dies for shrinking sheet and various other sheet metal machines.

Regards
Rick

[oldgoaly]

Rick,
I'll just post some pics of my machines T3 & P13 Pullmaxes and a Metalcraft Power Hammer kit. y 1st set of shrink dies was 1995 and I scaled a pic of Yoder dies down some for a P7 I had then. oh I also have a SMV Baby nibbler and a P5 head to put on a C shaped frame.

   

the pullmaxes

   

SMV Baby

   

c-frame P5

   

   

The power hammer

[Rickabilly]

Point taken, a sheet metal fan!

First things first , I'm impressed.

Ive got the Trumph
   
The fly presses of course, with a load of dies for producing contours rather than killing my back with mallets and shot bags, I use the small fly press with stretching and shrinking dies and the ubiquitous vee block press brake tools some of the dies are visible under the bench.
   
I'm part way through building my new C frame with English wheel, louvre tool, Air planishing hammer, etc.

My big folder, it'll fold (not press) 6 feet of 5mm plate, or as thin as you want of course
   
and my big Morgan Guillotine it was originally a 6 foot, 1/4 machine but was down graded to 1/8th to increase cycle speed, before I bought it, I'd rather strength than speed. it's got all the back gauges and stuff but I rarely use them, I rebuilt it from a very rough state and added all the shiny sheet metal, it's a bit flashy but nice to use
   
and a load of little bits and pieces, rotary swages, hand shears and punches, etc.

I had every intention of building a Yoder style hammer but when I looked at what I could do and how quickly I could do it using the fly presses I was hooked, for example ten (quiet) strikes with the right dies and I can make a dished piece of 3mm steel sheet about the size and shape as a half a basket ball, all of a sudden three hours fiddling about with shrinking dies seemed a bit of a waste of time,(i have a video out on the net somewhere, can't think of where right now though) so I made about six or eight different convex forming punches, a universal die and some good radius specific dies and there wasn't much that I couldn't do so the Yoder never happened, I'm not saying it won't but it hasn't yet.    

Regards
Rick

PS we might need a sheetmetal section on here now.