How I T-Slotted a Cast Iron face plate
#1
Lads...

I picked this blank casting up at an auction a while ago and it needs T-Slots so i decided to put 8 slots into it.

[Image: IMG_2868_zps7bf51346.jpg]


No big deal really, you just slot through your vertical male slot first and find the depth you want, the hard part is the slotting the horizontal slot. These little cutters are fragile because of the necking down of the stub to accommodate the clearance for the vertical slot. In this next shot i have the planer gage supporting a parallel because i can set the height of the T-Slotter using the parallel as a reference.

I do not want to touch bottom of the slot, i want it elevated about 3 thou higher, the reason is because i want the cutter when it is milling into the material to have a gap for relief of swarf and dust, while the slotter is rotating i am constantly removing swarf from in front and behind of the cutter some people use air to do this. This little technique eliminates most of the chances of the slotter binding up. This is cast iron so i had no lubricant, i cant remember the dimensions but its around 11/16 wide x .300 deep with just under 1/2 wide male slot, for the speed I ran the same for both end mill and T-slotter and it was around 550SFM i hand fed it very gently.

[Image: IMG_2869_zps1d4e92ce.jpg]

Here is the finished project, all i have to do now is make the T- Slots.

[Image: IMG_2870_zps22ae9be7.jpg]


[Image: IMG_2871_zps13241ec6.jpg]


Happy Days Anthony.
ieezitin, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Jan 2013.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#2
Looks like a success story. How did you attach the face plate to the rotary table?

Thanks for taking the time to document your project and share it with us.Thumbsup

Tom
[Image: TomsTechLogo-Profile.png]
Reply
Thanks given by:
#3
Anthony,

Very nice job on the face plate. You might want to cut some shallow rings on the surface to aid in aligning workpieces to the plate.

When you said "all i have to do now is make the T- Slots", I'm guessing you meant you just have to make the T-nuts. Smile

Ed
Reply
Thanks given by:
#4
Nice job - looks like a bought one.
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#5
Great job Anthony Smiley-signs107
Smiley-eatdrink004
DaveH
Reply
Thanks given by:
#6
Nice job! I would have liked to see the "Ts" being cut, have you any pics?
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#7
Smiley-signs009

A video would be ideal.

Ed
Reply
Thanks given by:
#8
(08-03-2013, 03:10 PM)EdK Wrote: Smiley-signs009

A video would be ideal.

Ed

Very nicely done
John
Reply
Thanks given by:
#9
Tom.

The face plate was held on with this plate that has a 1-1/2 - 8TPI register for the Rotab. I can install all my chucks from the lathes with it.

[Image: IMG_2532_zps2cd2119a.jpg]


Ed.... your right i completely forgot to do that. Yes i meant to say T-Nuts.

Steve.. i have another project coming up soon which needs slots i will show pictures...
ieezitin, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Jan 2013.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#10
Did you make that threaded adapter?

Ed
Reply
Thanks given by:




Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)