Home Anodizing Set-up

[Tony Wells]

Type III Hard Anodizing is the one that requires chilling. Runs down around water's freezing temperature.

Looking good, Tom.

[TomG]

(03-13-2013, 11:18 PM)Tony Wells Wrote: Type III Hard Anodizing is the one that requires chilling. Runs down around water's freezing temperature.

Looking good, Tom.

Thanks Tony.

No, I'm not planning to do any hardcoat just yet, only type II so I can color it. Maybe in the future though since hardcoat is often used in gunsmithing.

Parts are starting to trickle in so I should be wiring and plumbing soon.

Tom

[DaveH]

I'm ready Tom

DaveH

[eac67gt]

Hi Tom,

Just be careful with the caustics and the acids in the same place.
The good stainless I used just for screws on my anode rack tend to deteriorate, just need to watch the stainless.
Don't let the anodizing tank get to warm or the process will definitely fail, it happened to me.
The temp will run away based on load in tank.
Good luck...looks like a great project.
Ed

[TomG]

Thanks Ed, I've already considered that. The plan is to insulate each bucket with Styrofoam sheet foam to contain the heat, or or keep it away. If cooling proves to be an issue in the anodizing tank, I plan on adding a few Peltier thermoelectric modules to help out, since there is plenty of power available for them.

I just got back from the HD with a load of supplies so I'll be working on the bench this afternoon. The chemicals are also on order, so hopefully the bench will be semi-operational in a week or two. A few of the temperature control parts are still on a slow boat from China, but I can get by without them for now.

Tom

[stevec]

I read this
" The second most popular type of stainless, after Type 304, is Type 316. In Type 316 stainless, the chromium content is lowered
from 18% to 16%, however, the nickel content is raised to 10% and 2% molybdenum is added to the mixture.
This change in the chromium/nickel ratio and the addition of the molybdenum increases the resistance to chlorides.
This is why Type 316 stainless is often used in more corrosive environments where the material will be exposed to
chemical, solvent, or salt water corrosion and makes it the preferred material for marine construction. " in the following link
http://www.portlandbolt.com/faqs/2010/06...ess-steel/

[TomG]

You could always use titanium screws, but at $5 a piece you probably wouldn't want to use very many.

It sounds like aluminum hardware and racks might be the way to go.

Tom

[TomG]

I played around with the temperature control a bit and actually did a test run on water. It heated 5 gallons of 58º water to 140º in 25 minutes, which pretty much matched my calculations. Unfortunately, the controller way overshot, so I'll have to take a look at the instructions tomorrow (painful as it sounds) and make sure all the parameters are properly set.

Tom

[Mayhem]

It certainly looks like you are heading in the right direction Tom.

[TomG]

Yes Darren, it's starting to come together. It sure will be nice not to have to live with bare aluminum parts any more.

I plan on working on the bubbler system tomorrow and make the top for the bench, and maybe a little painting if there's time.

Tom