Arbor for mill advice

[pjf134]

I have a Sherline 2000 CNC mill with a rotary table and I want to make some gears with it. I need to make a arbor for it to hold the blank. I was thinking of using 2 threaded nuts to hold the blank on the arbor and was wondering if anyone tried this before. I was thinking of making it a small dia. rod and enlarging the center of the gear after it was cut otherwise I will have to make a few different size arbors. I think I have a tail stock for it and if I don't will have to make one. The mill was free with a box of tooling for it and the Sherline CNC lathe was free too with a box of tooling also. Every gear I made was done on a automatic gear cutter when I worked in a machine shop so this way is new to me. Any input would be appreciated.
Paul

[PixMan]

You might consider making one "master arbor" that has a shoulder on it and perhaps a keyway, then make mating sleeves to fit the gear blanks as they come along. The issues with that would be in determining the best diameter and length to make it.

What size gears will you be making, in terms of O.D. and I.D.? If you have a lathe it's probably an easy task to make up arbors as you go along, as there's nothing particularly complicated about them.

[pjf134]

PixMan,
I do not know what sizes I will be making yet, but with my luck they will be all different. I was just trying to get something that would fit a least a few different sizes. Arbors are easy to make, but would not like to have a lot around that maybe just gets used once. Most I think will be 6" or less, but I do have to make 2 that have the teeth facing inward and about 7" dia. inside and this would not work with a arbor and will have to be milled. My 4 jaw chuck is about 2 1/2" dia. and I could make it close to the chuck if it is bigger than that and maybe not use a tail stock if the material is soft like alum. or brass. I am just trying to think of a better way to do them. When I get one to make it will be a rush to get them done for a store near me because to send away for them takes too long for them and the machine will be down and that is money.
Paul

[TOM REED]

(03-04-2012, 12:38 AM)pjf134 Wrote: PixMan,
I do not know what sizes I will be making yet, but with my luck they will be all different. I was just trying to get something that would fit a least a few different sizes. Arbors are easy to make, but would not like to have a lot around that maybe just gets used once. Most I think will be 6" or less, but I do have to make 2 that have the teeth facing inward and about 7" dia. inside and this would not work with a arbor and will have to be milled. My 4 jaw chuck is about 2 1/2" dia. and I could make it close to the chuck if it is bigger than that and maybe not use a tail stock if the material is soft like alum. or brass. I am just trying to think of a better way to do them. When I get one to make it will be a rush to get them done for a store near me because to send away for them takes too long for them and the machine will be down and that is money.
Paul

I bought a neat arbor for a slitting saw from BUSY BEE here in Canada, I believe it is import but will fit a number of saw hole diameters as the sleeves are telescopic and spring loaded. It would work for small gears from about 1/2 hole dia to at least 1 inch. You coulod hold the arbor in the chuck it seems to be quite well made. tom

[Wongster]

I am reading the WR Smith's book on making a skeleton clock. In his book, he described a chuck that you apply super glue on to hole the clock wheels to cut teeth. The chuck has faced with shallow channels running around the centre on its face to allow air to interact with the super glue to bond the chuck to the wheel blank.

After cutting, apply heat to break the bond.

Regards,
Wong