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Should work. You can buy stepped key stock for that purpose. Machine the new keyway then cut the top of the key down before you install it.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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Beware, there is a reason they use woodruff keys. Normal key ways, weakens the shaft.
Noitoen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun since Nov 2012.
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11-30-2012, 08:26 PM
(This post was last modified: 11-30-2012, 08:34 PM by ETC57.)
Thanks all for your input I do appreciate the input!!
So Noitoen,
I understand what your saying but given the circumstance I'm not to worried about that, as you can see the key way starts about 4.09mm back from the end of the shaft and only makes contact with ruffly 1/2 of the balancer / pulley key way causing a slight twist to the load on the key thus the divot in the key way.
If I cut the key way on the shaft to the end of the shaft the key and both key ways shaft and pulley will have 100% contact making for a much more even load on the key and should eliminate the pulleys desire to spin on the shaft or at least greatly reduce it. Thoughts any one ?
Jerry.
ETC57, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Feb 2012.
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Once the pulley is tightened on to the shaft the key is doing nothing
Most modern engines have no key in the lower timing belt pulley (so you can get the valve / pump timing perfect)
I remember years ago having a box full of offset keys for setting cam timing (happy days)
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I know you don't want to shear one on a full blown alcohol motor at about 15 grand, makes getting the pulley off a bit of a pain.
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.
If life seems normal, your not going fast enough!
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