(07-08-2012, 09:19 AM)Sunset Machine Wrote: That is a bit much, but I don't know if it's that critical. Eyeballing the cutter to a center is close enough, although you're a bit out in the field at .080...
I've had bad luck with tapered arbors, the gear blanks are too narrow and tend to cock off to one side. The pressure/hammering of the cutter on the workpiece doesn't help. Better, I think, is to make a stepped arbor, and even your beat up lathe can make them. They force the blank to be square, up against a shoulder like that.
Threads are optional, a press fit if you want. I prefer using a nut though.
yes I was out far enough that I could see it without moving the cutter to the center of the shaft, but its what I get for using the same center height as I used on the part I was working on in the pictures I posted earlier. lesson learned don't trust previous setups.
And yes I can make arbors like that, just have to get it in gear and make a couple I have a couple feet of 1 inch 1018 should work ok can put a couple different shoulders on one shaft.
Thanks for the picture I was visioning the shoulder being in the middle of the shaft. got to make up a couple dogs I don't have any, guess I could just drill a hole in the shaft and bend one end of it the grind a couple of flats on it.
thanks
DA
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.
More homemade stuff. The one on the left is the adjustable driver that is mounted to a center that fits the dividing head. The one on the right clamps to the arbor, the assembly is then mounted between the dividing head centers with the little tab fitting into that driver - this is the rotational adjustment you can make for cleanups and re-do's, although not needed for a new blank needing teeth. It's similar to, but different than a lathe dog/faceplate setup.
picked up a piece of square bar today to make a couple or at least one dog with, but haven't gotten around to doing any thing to it yet. have mill buried in another project at the moment. hopefully maybe tomorrow I can do some on it.
DAllen
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.
got me an arbor made to hold the blanks away for the indexer while trying to cut gears. also picked up the two tapered mandrels that I had ordered last week.
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.
Looks good from here. I like to keep the blank near the tailstock to avoid spring and feed the cutter towards the headstock in a conventional upcut, just like you were doing. If the blank is thin or the arbor small, then a support/stop needs to be added in an appropriate location if you see things flexing. I've put teeth on 1/4" shafts where a drilled/split block in a vice was used instead of the tailstock. Also, be aware that the OD is an indirect reference. The actual reference is the center of the blank's bore. If the OD is off, allow for it when you set your depth of cut. If the gear is mounted on fixed shafts when in operation, you might want to cut them as zero clearance and then test for fit. Too tight, then back into the mill with it for another .005 pass, and you'll find the rotational adjustment of value in doing that. Just some ideas.
You're still missing the dog - how's that coming? Make it thick, else the clamping screws will bend it. Mine uses a drilled hole in the middle instead of a V. Leaves a horrible mark on the arbors, I've rounded the edge a bit and it's better, but a V would be best. Or just don't tighten it so much..
I haven't been doing to much with this right now need to get back on it, but the mini mill is eating up time like no ones business. I have th arbor cut for a tight 5/8 fit and the dog end I cut it square did it after taking the picture.
I appreciate all the info. I have received the cutter that I ordered that is the correct one to cut gears for my lathe with in the 20 to 25 tooth range, I hope to buy the complete set here pretty quick finances are pretty tight at the moment.
and yes I understand the od is an indrect referance, if the bore is off it doesn't matter what the od is them cause your bore won't be centered in the gear, I plan on making the bores undersized then rebore them after the teeth are cut.
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.
07-16-2012, 10:05 AM (This post was last modified: 07-16-2012, 10:30 AM by Sunset Machine.)
I'd have to check, but I think all of my cutters are #2,#3 and one #4. None of them have dulled from use. The others in a set wouldn't have been used at all.
(07-16-2012, 10:05 AM)Sunset Machine Wrote: I'd have to check, but I think all of my cutters are #2,#3 and one #4. None of them have dulled from use. The others in a set wouldn't have been used at all.
I have a question about your chart, it says that the number four cutter cuts from 26 to 34 teeth, but the cutter that I ordered is a number 4 and its marked 21 to 25 curious as to which is right or do different makers make the cutters differently.
Anyway here is a photo of the gear that I did get to turn out workable I won't say anywhere near as good as it should be but for a first its passable.
Also made another Arbor this one is for 18MM which is what the shaft size is on my 12 inch lathe.
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.
