Posts: 3,003
Threads: 51
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Ontario
Thanks Dave. Guess I was over due, I've had this one 10 or 12 years. Think I understand what your saying. Will have a look at it when I get time.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
Posts: 163
Threads: 20
Joined: Nov 2012
Location: upstate Ny
thanks for the tips.....I havent taken it apart yet, my trouble isnt the lower large gear you see when you take the clip on cover off, its something with the direction lever ...whatever is on that, something feels stipped or something
monkers, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun since Nov 2012.
Posts: 3,003
Threads: 51
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Ontario
A pleasant surprise today, or I had horse shoes up my ash. When I took the cover off the gear is laying in the cover. How did that fall off is my first thought then I spot the two little clips holding a SPARE in the cover.
Should order one now, but its working so why would I bother.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
Posts: 183
Threads: 22
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Australia
A lot of them come with a spare, or like mine a provision for a spare. I can't complain as I bought them cheap from the US.
If you stripped your gear just throw that one on, if not don't worry about buying one.
With the ones I bought I put a spare in each of the 3 so I know where they are when needed, but if it wasn't for my stupidity when making the coolant tray I wouldn't have needed one, LOL
Keep the power feed stops in place to prevent this happening.
I have used the poser feed a few times with the axis locked, but it just over loads it and I have to push the reset button. It was the hard hit of the knee bottoming out that killed mine.
Dave
Posts: 8,842
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Arizona/Minnesota
Sometimes you get lucky. That must have been a good feeling being able to get it back up and running so quickly.
Ed
Posts: 4,439
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Missouri, USA
I've always wondered why I could barely see the "power light" on my table feed. Now I see it's because what I assumed was a bad LED, is actually a neon lamp under a plastic light tube/fiber optic.
Does anyone know what voltage/current that lamp runs at?
I would love to be able to replace mine with a LED that I can actually see when it's on.
Willie
Posts: 8,842
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Arizona/Minnesota
Willie,
Typically, neon lamps are driven with 110 or 220V AC. You can run them with DC at about 90V. The life expectancy when driven with DC volts is reduced somewhat.
If the transformer on that board is a step-down transformer you might be able to make a simple rectifier with some filtering to drive a LED.
Ed