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03-09-2017, 11:39 AM
(This post was last modified: 03-09-2017, 11:41 AM by Thumb.)
(03-08-2017, 12:52 PM)rleete Wrote: The ones that say "ballast compatible or bypass" work in any fixture. No mods necessary.
I'm getting really confused, are you saying if I buy a Bypass bulb, then all I have to do is put it in the fixture without doing any re-wiring?
I have four 8' light fixtures and want to put the LED bulbs in them. My ballasts are good so it would be a shame to have to cut the wires.
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Just looked at the Green Light web site again and determined that with a bypass bulb the ballast needs to be 1) removed or 2) taken out of the circuitry. Maybe I could sell the ballasts on CL. Worth a shot as the advertising is free.
As Vinney pointed out the bypass bulbs are cheaper and produce as much light.
I currently have 16 8ft two bulb fixtures as general lighting in my 24 X 48 shop plus six 4ft 4 bulb fixtures as task lights, over the mill, the lathe etc. When I raise the roof to 12ft I'm adding 8 more 2 bulb 8ft fixtures. Plus I just purchased a box of 8ft bulbs. 48 eight foot bulbs @ $21ea is $1008.00. Plus shipping.
Think I'll blame Vinney for posting the Green Light info a few days after I bought the bulbs.
So overall that will come to a tidy sum. I'll wait to purchase the LEDs until after the roof is raised and will need to calculate how many bulbs to buy at a time so shipping does not eat my lunch. I've looked at LEDs at the local big box stores and Green Light has much much better prices even with shipping.
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(03-09-2017, 11:39 AM)Thumb Wrote: (03-08-2017, 12:52 PM)rleete Wrote: The ones that say "ballast compatible or bypass" work in any fixture. No mods necessary.
I'm getting really confused, are you saying if I buy a Bypass bulb, then all I have to do is put it in the fixture without doing any re-wiring?
I have four 8' light fixtures and want to put the LED bulbs in them. My ballasts are good so it would be a shame to have to cut the wires.
That statement confused me also.
Ed
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Bypass bulbs require a bypass, i.e. cutting out the ballast and rewiring. "Ballast compatible or bypass" means they work either way, ballast there or not.
Full of ideas, but slow to produce parts
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Note the quotes, that'll eliminate the confusion. Hey Doc, I'm not the one who brought up Green Light!
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(03-09-2017, 06:27 PM)Vinny Wrote: Note the quotes, that'll eliminate the confusion. Hey Doc, I'm not the one who brought up Green Light!
OK then I'll blame you as the administrator for leaving it up. Ya can't win either way.
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03-09-2017, 11:43 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-09-2017, 11:43 PM by Hawkeye.)
Last Friday, the boss asked me to build a shelf unit with wine rack for his wife while she's away. This week, I've had a few short assignments as an electrician. The rest of the time, I've been paid to have fun in the shop.
In order to get the necessary parts the same length, I cut the pieces about a 1/4" over length, then stacked them in the bandsaw vise with the ends lined up accurately. A piece of corrugated cardboard in the vise helps to clamp all the pieces firmly.
The unit will be picked up tomorrow for painting. Black hammer-tone. Smoked glass shelves. LED up-lighting under the wine bottles. It will go into a rock-lined alcove in their kitchen. He predicts that she will cry.
Mike
If you can't get one, make one.
Hawkeye, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Jan 2013.
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"He predicts that she will cry"
Hey it's not THAT bad, she may like it :)
Andrew Mawson, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Oct 2013.
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(03-09-2017, 11:43 PM)Hawkeye Wrote: A piece of corrugated cardboard in the vise helps to clamp all the pieces firmly.
That's a good one will remember and use it..
Thanks
Greg
Magazines have issues, everything else has problems
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