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Project Bridgeport Rebuild
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12-16-2016, 11:16 AM
(12-16-2016, 12:23 AM)Old Minger Wrote: Ed your absolutely right my Bridgeport does have those covers. I was just going by the amount of chips I had to shovel out of the knee when I took it apart. You literally couldn't see the gear mechanism because of the amount of chips down there. Do you think I should keep it? John, Anything to help keep the chips off of gears and lead screws is worth keeping.  Ed 
12-16-2016, 01:32 PM
(12-16-2016, 12:23 AM)Old Minger Wrote: Ed your absolutely right my Bridgeport does have those covers. I was just going by the amount of chips I had to shovel out of the knee when I took it apart. You literally couldn't see the gear mechanism because of the amount of chips down there. Do you think I should keep it? No you should crate it up and ship it to me. I'll PM my address. O never mind, I thought you were talking about the mill. 
12-24-2016, 12:05 AM
So I plugged the leaks from the oil meters by replacing the olives, however I could not get the oil to flow in two of the oil channels on top of the saddle ways. It would seem that the fit of the oil pipe in the oil channel hole was not a good fit and it would leak faster out of the hole than it could supply the oil channel, does any of that make sense?. Anyway all I could think of was to apply some high grade silicon around the pipe and oil channel entrance hole to stop the back flow. It seems to have done the job and oil is going to where it should do. Tomorrow I hope to put the table on and level the old girl. Cheers John
12-24-2016, 08:47 PM
The table went on easy wish I could say the same for the lead screw. After about an hour of messing about I could not get it to engage the rear split nut so decided to remove the table and I packed the gap between the nuts with some felt. This way it should them being forced together by the lead screw and it might help soak up some of the lube oil. So second time of asking and all went well. Next up will be the ram and the ram adaptor and I hope to get this done over the Christmas break. Merry Christmas and a Happy new year to one and all. Cheers John 
12-24-2016, 11:27 PM
You're doing a good job John.
 Ed Thanks given by: Old Minger
12-25-2016, 11:36 AM
Thanks Ed.
So once the table was on I decided to level the machine. I'm not sure how important it is to have the machine level at this stage or how accurate that level has to be as I know you tram the head and the table before you start milling but I assume a reasonable level is desired? I don't have an accurate machinist level only my brick laying level so the only thing I could think of was to borrow a friends laser level and use my Mitutoyo set square. I got it fairly close but not sure if this is good enough. What do you think gents? Here is my set up. 
12-25-2016, 11:44 AM
It is very useful, when setting work out, to have the bed dead nuts on level. But if you don't have an accurate level anyway then it rules out using it for setting work up anyway. Find yourself a reasonable machinists level - after all they can be easily checked for accuracy by rotating 180 degrees, and most have some form of tweaking ability.
Andrew Mawson, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Oct 2013.
12-26-2016, 07:52 AM
"It is very useful, when setting work out, to have the bed dead nuts on level."
Andrew, I'd love to know why???
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
12-26-2016, 03:23 PM
Setting work vertical using a box square
Setting castings horizontal on machinists jacks ... and many other situations where you need a reference plain
Andrew Mawson, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Oct 2013.
12-27-2016, 08:39 AM
(12-26-2016, 03:23 PM)awemawson Wrote: Setting work vertical using a box square (12-25-2016, 11:44 AM)awemawson Wrote: It is very useful, when setting work out, to have the bed dead nuts on level. But if you don't have an accurate level anyway then it rules out using it for setting work up anyway. Find yourself a reasonable machinists level - after all they can be easily checked for accuracy by rotating 180 degrees, and most have some form of tweaking ability. Sorry, but the way I see it, even if the mill and its bed are at some angle off "level", the relation of the bed to the head are the only things that have to be "dead nuts". I'm trying to imagine a mill on board a naval vessel being dead nuts on level. My mill table isn't "dead nuts on level" but it's tramed to be accurate as far as working to precision. Or am I missing something ? 
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
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