Thanks Ed, glad you like it! It's the sort of little touch that makes a machine quicker, easier and more satisfying to use :)
I made a dial for my tailstock like that so I could drill to depth accurately, rather than using the "ruler" on the barrel - the hardest bit was grduating the dial with 125 thou" lines and punching.the.numbers square!
I used ballpoint pen springs cut down and (if memory serves me well) 3/16" balls, and turned a shallow groove in the calibrated ring to keep it centred on the main dial body.
As I do a lot of work in metric as well as Imperial, I have a cunning plan to make some geared dials, but it means cutting several 120 and 127 tooth internal 32 or 40 DP gears - eek!
I discovered that my carriage handwheel (no dial) is 1.025" / turn, so Some Thought Required to make a dial for it - at the moment I'm thinking 120-123 internal gears to get that to something useful, although there is a micrometer stop and a gauge tray already there... I'd then be tempted to make it a dual dial, so another set of internal gears...
Dave H. (the other one)
Edited for typo....
Rules are for the obedience of fools, and the guidance of wise men...
(Douglas Bader)
Thanks for posting that Ed, not many people show a weakness in something they have made. It's a shame after all that work that the swarf catches, whats your plan of attack to add a shield?
(07-04-2013, 11:44 PM)Dave J Wrote: Thanks for posting that Ed, not many people show a weakness in something they have made. It's a shame after all that work that the swarf catches, whats your plan of attack to add a shield?
Dave
Hi Dave,
Here's my solution. A piece of plastic milk bottle. Not elegant but should work fine.
07-06-2013, 07:30 PM (This post was last modified: 07-07-2013, 02:56 AM by Dave J.)
Hi Ed,
Maybe something like this below could be made in the future?
It would need to be hollowed out enough to clear the thumb screw, and then you could run and end mill around the top of the stop to recess it in, then either screw it or loctite it it in.
The rear corners or my drawing would need to be rounded off to suit the end mill radius.
Aluminium would do the job and be easy to work with and then painted the same colour, which would make it look like it was a part of it.
I saved pictures of your stop on my computer to build one just like it, so will have to look into a slight change of design.
Dave
Edit, forgot to add a picture
Now it was to big
(07-06-2013, 07:30 PM)Dave J Wrote: Hi Ed,
Maybe something like this below could be made in the future?
It would need to be hollowed out enough to clear the thumb screw, and then you could run and end mill around the top of the stop to recess it in, then either screw it or loctite it it in.
The rear corners or my drawing would need to be rounded off to suit the end mill radius.
Aluminium would do the job and be easy to work with and then painted the same colour, which would make it look like it was a part of it.
I saved pictures of your stop on my computer to build one just like it, so will have to look into a slight change of design.
Dave
Edit, forgot to add a picture
Now it was to big
Dave,
That would certainly do the job. I'll have to take some measurements and draw one up and check the clearances necessary.
(07-07-2013, 07:38 PM)stevec Wrote: Ed, couldn't you machine more clearance behind that nice brass nut to allow most swarf to pass through?
Steve,
I thought of that but there isn't enough room. I'd end up cutting into the clamping bolt hole. But you're right in that I should have designed it a little longer in that dimension so I could have left a gap for the swarf to drop out.
