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Managed to put off the cabinets, (paying work) for another week.
Have the mechanism for the tool holder pretty much nailed down.
The flanged thingy that the main shaft rides in will be bolted into the housing along with the spindle on the same plain. The shaft will rotate with the tool holder to bring the tool along the face of the stone. Similar to the import single lip cutter grinders.
The brass part at the end of the shaft holds a nut captive that will move the shaft in and out to adjust the depth of cut.. The nut acts on a hollow shaft that is keyed to the brass part to stop it rotating but rotates on the main shaft, if it was fixed the cutter to wheel distance would change slightly as the tool was swung into the wheel. I cut it 20 tpi so 50 divisions on the still to be made handle will advance the cutter 1 thou per division.
The shaft rotates and slides in cast iron bearings that I pressed and silver soldered into the housing thingy. The shaft is a ferretic stainless I got from an oilfield application. Its a polish rod from a pump jack, stainless for corrosion resistance in a sour oil environment, but has to be extremely wear resistant as it stokes up and down with a packing gland running on it for years on end. Hope it works here.
I have a flat rubber seal on the end of the housing to keep grit out of the bearing, may go to felt, should I put an oil cup on the housing or use grease?
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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More on the depth of cut adjuster.
The hollow shaft that is threaded 1 - 20 tpi.
The keyway is cut into that shaft and a set screw with the end turned to .120 slides in it. The brass part will bolt to the back of the housing.
The brass plate with the counter sunk holds stops the nut fro moving in and out. The double nut arrangement holds the hollow shaft on the main shaft. A graduated handle/cover will go over this and mount to the nut with a set screw. A compression spring inside the shaft will act on the handle to remove any axial play.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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Location: Ontario
This is the beginning of the housing, note the quarter round corners, not necessary but gives it that cast look, till I get a foundry going to actually cast something.
Of course the plate has a slight crown from welding, as expected so I was going to add the two pads sitting there then mill them off flat, one for the tool holder the other for the spindle.
Rather than weld just the outside, should I burn a big hole in the housing where they will sit then weld inside and out? Im leaning to that method, then the mounting bolts only need to be threaded through one layer or 1/4 plate. Any opinions welcomed.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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Greg can't see your'e pics. I click on the red X ---then show pic,,-- but it doesn't come up ???
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm
sasquatch, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun since Jul 2012.
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(12-11-2012, 05:56 PM)sasquatch Wrote: Greg can't see your'e pics. I click on the red X ---then show pic,,-- but it doesn't come up ???
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm
The picture shows up fine for me.
Ed
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Sasquatch
No x's to click on my computer the photos just come up, Maybe its the browser your using. We'll have to come up with described video as they mention on some TV shows.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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Location: Ontario
Decided to cut the housing behind the bosses and weld the front only. The face stayed amazingly flat, 20 thou cleaned up the first and 40 thou brought the second on to the same height.
The bolt pattern on the spindle housing isn't symmetric, I have it located by the bore so will use a transfer punch to mark them out.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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12-11-2012, 08:45 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-12-2012, 06:41 AM by EdK.)
(12-11-2012, 05:56 PM)sasquatch Wrote: Greg can't see your'e pics. I click on the red X ---then show pic,,-- but it doesn't come up ???
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm
You've obviously been banned, (or ray-banned ) the ocular receptors on your screen have determined you are not to be trusted.
Wear sunglasses whe you're viewing posts on this site.
Besides, it's cool.
Nice stuff Greg, (Ho hum, as usual)
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
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12-12-2012, 02:39 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-12-2012, 05:34 PM by EdK.)
Its looking like I may actually finish this project, was doubtful at first.
With some assembly it might be more clear how it will work. The tool holder rotates with the shaft to bring the cutter into the wheel with the set cutting angle and clearance angle.
Will add a stop to control how far the cutter swings into the wheel. With a different too holder it should work on drills and the end of end mills.
This largish looking knob adjusts the depth of cut by pulling the shaft and tool holder closer to the wheel.
Still need to mount the motor and speed control. Have a variable transformer, gives 0 -120 v, will give variable speed to about 5000 rpm on the wheel.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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Location: Cornwall, On
Beautiful quality machining, I am anxious to see the final result.
I always wanted to make a Quorn universal Tool & Cutter Grinder using a Dumore tool post grinder but my machines are a bit undersized for that type of project.
Seeing you progress on your grinder makes me envious. Keep up the great work and keep posting pictures.
Do you have plans for this or are you winging it.
Claude
claudef, proud to be a member of Metalworking Forum since Mar 2012.
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