leadscrew nut re taper attachment

[krv3000]

hi I may have missed this but what make is the lathe?

[petertha]

(10-24-2012, 04:59 PM)krv3000 Wrote: hi I may have missed this but what make is the lathe?

It's called a King. Well, thats the nameplate sticker of the Canadian distributer. http://www.kingcanada.com/Products.htm?CD=116

The machines originate from Taiwan, at least mine did around '99 when I got it. They look quite familiar to other models I see in the USA & 'somewhat similar' to a host of Chinese knockoffs. I've been pretty happy with it thus far. The dials are nice, seems reasonably accurate for my purposes. I've seen worse quality. It has seem light, occassional use up until recent. I'm in 'hobby transition' so to speak & now want to focus on some metalworking projects like the nice stuff I see on this forum!

I remember having the choice of getting a taper attachment at the time. It was somewhat a cost saving thing, but in hindsight the local sales guy was not up to speed. He indicated it could just be purchased later. But I've since discovered through calling them & other forums that King requires this be specified up front & there are mechanical differences. I'm just not 100% on the extent. So every once in a while I wonder out loud if there is a workaround. I think i could build the tapering apparatus, its the 'temporary un-coupling the leadscrew to move the slide' issue that has me scratching my head.

Sorry for the long-winded answer.

[EdK]

(10-24-2012, 06:52 PM)petertha Wrote:

(10-24-2012, 04:59 PM)krv3000 Wrote: hi I may have missed this but what make is the lathe?

It's called a King. Well, thats the nameplate sticker of the Canadian distributer. http://www.kingcanada.com/Products.htm?CD=116

The machines originate from Taiwan, at least mine did around '99 when I got it. They look quite familiar to other models I see in the USA & 'somewhat similar' to a host of Chinese knockoffs. I've been pretty happy with it thus far. The dials are nice, seems reasonably accurate for my purposes. I've seen worse quality. It has seem light, occassional use up until recent. I'm in 'hobby transition' so to speak & now want to focus on some metalworking projects like the nice stuff I see on this forum!

I remember having the choice of getting a taper attachment at the time. It was somewhat a cost saving thing, but in hindsight the local sales guy was not up to speed. He indicated it could just be purchased later. But I've since discovered through calling them & other forums that King requires this be specified up front & there are mechanical differences. I'm just not 100% on the extent. So every once in a while I wonder out loud if there is a workaround. I think i could build the tapering apparatus, its the 'temporary un-coupling the leadscrew to move the slide' issue that has me scratching my head.

Sorry for the long-winded answer.

Post a picture of your lathe if you can. It helps a lot to be able to see it rather than read a description of it.

Thanks,
Ed

[petertha]

(10-24-2012, 01:50 PM)stevec Wrote: ..If by bearing cluster you are referring to the 2 #6s on either side of #7. I don't think yoneed to worry they should be thrust races with a caged ball thrust in between them...

OK, thats good to know for future reference. I'm no bearing expert but when I saw the doubled nuts on the handle side, I figured maybe they were factory set to some spec for thrust bearing play or whatever you call it. I didnt want to bugger up something I didnt fully understand.

[stevec]

(10-24-2012, 06:58 PM)petertha Wrote: OK, thats good to know for future reference. I'm no bearing expert but when I saw the doubled nuts on the handle side, I figured maybe they were factory set to some spec for thrust bearing play or whatever you call it. I didnt want to bugger up something I didnt fully understand.

I'd say there's no "spec" just take up the play without being tight enough to feel drag then hold the inner nut and lock up the outer and you should be good to go.

[f350ca]

Not to steal the thread, it might be something you could use. On my Summit the taper attachment is either locked to the bed for cutting tapers or moves with the carriage for straight cuts. You do nothing to the cross feed, it still functions when cutting a taper. Have never looked into it , it just works. There is a rod comes off the taper attachment, an clamp grabs the bed, close the clamp and it cuts the taper, release it and the clamp slides along the bed and you cut straight.

[petertha]

(10-24-2012, 07:13 PM)f350ca Wrote: On my Summit the taper attachment is either locked to the bed for cutting tapers or moves with the carriage for straight cuts. You do nothing to the cross feed, it still functions when cutting a taper....

Thats interesting. I wonder how it works. Do you have a parts breakdown handy? I found this link to a Summit, looks similar to mine. But as I'm finding, there seem to be lots of variations out there.
http://www.summitmt.com/machine-tools/ma...-for-sale/

Here is what the King website shows for taper attachement. And of course their (now) big bold caveat about ordering it up front.

[Mayhem]

Petertha - I wouldn't worry too much about the caveat. To me that is the same as the stickers on equipment that reads "no user serviceable parts inside". There will be a way to make and use a taper attachment on your lathe.

Greg - any chance of some pictures of the taper attachment and fixings on your lathe?

[petertha]

(10-24-2012, 06:54 PM)EdK Wrote: Post a picture of your lathe if you can. It helps a lot to be able to see it rather than read a description of it. Thanks, Ed

Not the best pic, but this one was handy. I'm 90% done a DRO installation. If anyone is interested I can post that seperately.

[f350ca]

This is the lathe. http://summitmt.com/wp-content/uploads/2...pdf?027482

Will try and get a photo tomorrow if I can get it clean enough to be presentable. Will get a picture of the parts breakdown as well.