Sasquatch, during the 4 hour choke cable change, I discovered an air duct that comes off to get at the plugs on mine. Wouldn't you love spending 3 hours on a lake changing plugs when it won't start.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
(02-11-2013, 08:21 PM)ETC57 Wrote: ... in order to get the transmission bell housing bolts in he would need to raise the body 6" off the frame...
I don't doubt that. To get the 4L60E transmission out of my brothers Holden Commodore (Its either a Chev or Pontiac over there). You have to join all the extensions you have together with a wiggly 13mm socket at the end to get the top two bell housing bolts out. To get the others and to remove the tranny the starter has to come of (like most), the steering linkage has to be removed, as do the RH exhaust header pipe both exhaust pipes from the header pipes to the rear mufflers and you have to drop the tailshaft centre bearing (and a lot of naughty words). Then you have to heat up the electrical connectors on the park/neutral switch because they fill them with a waterproof goo that sets hard. Other than that it is a walk in the park.
Problem is now that engine/transmissions are put together on the assembly line with all the bells and whistles and then shoe-horned into the car prior to rolling it off the line.
(02-11-2013, 08:21 PM)ETC57 Wrote: Yes my son was asked to in stall an engine in a small Chevy blazer ( engine was already out ) after several a tempts a local Chevy dealer informed him that in order to get the transmission bell housing bolts in he would need to raise the body 6" off the frame.
Jerry.
Jerry, wouldn't it be easier to take the trany out, bolt it up and then slide the assembled unit in? Or am I still living in the 80s & 90s?
(02-11-2013, 08:21 PM)ETC57 Wrote: Yes my son was asked to in stall an engine in a small Chevy blazer ( engine was already out ) after several a tempts a local Chevy dealer informed him that in order to get the transmission bell housing bolts in he would need to raise the body 6" off the frame.
Jerry.
Jerry, wouldn't it be easier to take the trany out, bolt it up and then slide the assembled unit in? Or am I still living in the 80s & 90s?
No Steve,
The problem is the cross member that holds the tail section of the transmission is a permanent fixture, so when you feed the trans/engine assembly into the engine bay by the time you can level out the combo your trapped under the cross member.
I suppose you could remove the entire front clip and have a shot at it.
Fortuity I wasn't there.
Jerry.
ETC57, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Feb 2012.
Well gentlemen it is time to share with you my latest project. Over the past three weeks I have been building a new tool box to complement my recently acquired mill. I decided to build a box to hold all of the accessories for the mill to save me time walking across the shop to my other boxes. There was also a problem with space as acquiring more stuff requires more storage space. I had a stand designed for a grinder which I was not using and figured it would make the perfect base.
The box is made from two oak planks purchased from my local Lowes Improvement Center. I have been told by the clerks in the store that Lowes is not a hardware store that they are a home improvement center and that is why they carry such a poor selection of bolts, taps and other accessories after they have driven the two full line hardware stores in town out of business.
The box measures 18 x 10 x 10 and has fourteen drawers and a top designed to hold tools you are using on your project. Tony Well provided some well needed advice on how to use a slot saw on the mill for installing the metal bottoms in the drawers. They were made form scrap stainless steel salvaged from an old dishwasher. The whole box is glued together, there are no fasteners used. Total cost, around $60.00 and some time.
ml_woy, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun since Jul 2012.