I used an old wall wart, and hooked it to the leads off the E-stop button. Comes on when the E-stop is lifted, goes off when I shut everything down. I also used the BMW angel eyes LED, as recommended over on madmodder or HMEM (I forgot which one).
(02-23-2016, 09:23 AM)rleete Wrote: How are you wiring it?
I used an old wall wart, and hooked it to the leads off the E-stop button. Comes on when the E-stop is lifted, goes off when I shut everything down. I also used the BMW angel eyes LED, as recommended over on madmodder or HMEM (I forgot which one).
I've been planning on adding an outlet and second switch to the mill so I can plug the wall wart into the outlet and have a separate switch for it. There's enough to the ring that I'll be able to mill a square in the bottom for a DC jack. I hate to use a 2A wall wart for something that only draws 230MA.
Funny you should mention HMEM. I was reading the thread on the rotary table Rod did and somewhere near the end he made one out of aluminum. I didn't need an offset slot for the ring so I just did it on the lathe.
Mayhem: Pic coming soon! I did the set screw last nite so it's just wire and install. Just need to measure the plug on the wall wart first.
I'm not sure of what I'm doing here, but it seems to be working so far. Really didn't expect to see the contact as large as it is. And it improved after I inserted the bearing I had forgotten.. It's an experiment in bevel gearing, replacing generated gears with milled. The plastic was just to hurry things along.
The last time I was in the US (2014), Ken took me to meet Russ and I got a tour of his very well equiped and very capable family run machine shop. To my surprise, we returned the next day and Russ gifted me a box of tooling that he no longer wanted. In that box was an Iscar SGTBU 25.4-5G parting blade block and two dual end blades and inserts.
As I had a Valenite VGTB 16-25 block already, I put this aside for a friend. Yesterday I found it hiding at the back of one of my cupboards and today I machined .500" off of it, so that it will fit my friend's QCTP, which accepts 1/2" shank tooling.
This was the perfect job for my Walter F4042R.UB13.038.Z06.10 shoulder mill. As I didn't know what material or hardness it was, I ran the face mill at 970 rpm and took a .050" cut. It cut effortlessly, so I continued with that speed and DOC. I climb-milled, and the chips came of straw coloured and turned blue/purple by the time they landed. I took a .025" finish cut, increasing the feed and got a very nice finish.
First pass - you can just see the scribe line that is my visual cue to stop.
All finished.
I'm probably going to have to remove some of the width, as I want to keep the bulk of the block against the tool holder. I just want to check the actual depth of the slot. I assume it is 1/2" but I want to check first. I also need to ensure that the blade clamp will not foul the tool holder if I narrow the width too much. I left that at my other shop though...
I made another stab at using carbide (brazed) on the lathe, it lasted about 2 seconds. Finish was lousy, I ran the spindle as fast as it would go, cutting steel. Scary fast. No kidding, it made my heart pound. Never saw a lathe as a source of excitement before.
I need to throw the brazed things away so they stop tempting me, and let the tool man pick something out. I'll want to spend $5, he'll want $500 and all the other endings to this story have me leaving empty handed... This time THINGS WILL BE DIFFERENT!
![[Image: lite4.jpg]](http://metalshop.nobucks.net/pix/lite4.jpg)
It's an experiment in bevel gearing, replacing generated gears with milled. The plastic was just to hurry things along.
