Todays Project - What did you do today?

[Pete O]

I finally got the feedscrew repair finished on my lathe.
I had cut the replacement 1" 5tpi l/h acme screw months ago, got the outer dimensions of the nut finished last week after I finally got the mill up and running, yesterday i took the feedscrew out and took it to a friend's place, cut it in two using his chop saw (the point of no return!) and used his lathe to mate the two pieces.
Outer diameter at the plain section in front of the drive gear is 0.900, I bored it to 0.600 (actually ended up 0.6004) and 1.100 deep, then turned the male section on the new screw to 0.598" and 1.00 long.
   
   
Brought it home and mated the two pieces with some Loctite 620.
I left it overnight, then cross-drilled and reamed to take a small taper pin. Inserted the pin also with 620.
   
Left it for an hour or so then cut the ends off the pin and filed them flush. I have fitted the new screw and nut, and will have to get accustomed to working with .002 backlash on the crossfeed where I used to have about .042.

[f350ca]

(08-31-2015, 08:08 PM)EdK Wrote:

(08-31-2015, 08:05 PM)f350ca Wrote: Started making more cedar shingles to finish the shop.

...
Figure I need about 6 million shingles to cover the wall.

Isn't that the mechanism Sadie took off on? She decide to come back then, huh? Probably got hungry.

Ed

She's taken to using the new ATV, it rides better.

[johnnyc14]

Made up a couple of stainless sheet metal covers for the openings on my mill to replace the missing/broken original plastic ones. Some day I'm going to re-paint this machine, the current paint job is pretty ugly and beat up.

[zmotorsports]

That looks good Johnny. What did you use for the engine turned look?

Mike.

[johnnyc14]

(09-01-2015, 01:24 PM)zmotorsports Wrote: That looks good Johnny.  What did you use for the engine turned look?

Mike.

Thanks Mike, I just used a 2 inch 3M Scotchbrite Roloc disc in the drill chuck. I ran the machine at 200 rpm and just brought the disc into light contact for 3 or 4 seconds in each position. I spaced the contacts on 1 inch centres starting in the centre of the panel. It was easier than trying to polish the stainless to an even finish.

[zmotorsports]

(09-01-2015, 09:23 PM)johnnyc14 Wrote:

(09-01-2015, 01:24 PM)zmotorsports Wrote: That looks good Johnny.  What did you use for the engine turned look?

Mike.

Thanks Mike, I just used a 2 inch 3M Scotchbrite Roloc disc in the drill chuck. I ran the machine at 200 rpm and just brought the disc into light contact for 3 or 4 seconds in each position. I spaced the contacts on 1 inch centres starting in the centre of the panel. It was easier than trying to polish the stainless to an even finish.

Thanks. Nice job, it turned out great.

Mike.

[f350ca]

The shop compressor started flickering the lights when it fired up. Even dropped the voltage low enough to shut down the electronics on the cnc plasma table. I was and maybe still am suspecting the connections on the 100 amp overhead service between the house and the shop. An electrician I know was in the other day, he suggested checking the capacitors on the motor. Took them into the rewind place today. The two 1060 mF start capacitors were open and one of the 15 mF run capacitors were open. He didn't have the big ones in stock so had to order them, no problem. My question is how could it start at all if the two start capacitors which are in serious were open? His answer was it had a strong run winding ? Huh.
Thought you needed the start winding to get a single phase motor to start and run in the desired direction.
Guess I know even less than the little bit I thought I knew about electric motors.
To emphasize how little I know, I was quizzing him about the motor on the shaper Im getting. Its supposed to be single phase but I couldn't see any place for the start capacitor. He suggested it might be a Repulsive Start/ Induction Run motor. Again HUH. Apparently they have brushes that supply the starting power (Very high starting torque) then switch to induction mode (not using the brushes) to run. He said if thats what it is do what ever you can to keep it running, apparently they were a great motor aside from having to change brushes).
Any motor gurus

[Hawkeye]

The motor on my Lewis shaper doesn't have any capacitors. It's a 1/3 HP. The start windings are connected through a centrifugally operated switch that opens when the speed gets high enough.

[Dr Stan]

Cannot and will not claim authorship/designing for this nice prick punch as it came from:  http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/showt...09/03/2015





The steel slug rides freely on the rod and is dropped, slidehammer-fashion, onto the steel plate pinned to the shaft to drive the prick punch into the work. The punch itself is made from an index hole punch rescued from an old mechanical teletype. The brass screw at the end hides a pocket to store punches and also serves to keep the hammer on the rod.


Now I have another addition for my 2 do list.

[Mayhem]

Got some time in the shop to actually work on my stuff

I did some more work on my drawbar hammer and now just need to sort out the wooden inserts.  I stole that idea from Ed and it sounded pretty cool.  It also meant more milling, which I need to practice.  Those rectangular blocks I picked up from an old tool and die maker worked a treat to hold everything parallel for machining the second flat.  Since Ken is selling some of the CenterDex mill/drills, I decided to use mine to do this.

   
   
   

I also made a start on a work stop but ran out of time.  Those two rough blocks of steel will be the clamping blocks.

   
   
   
   

Don't worry Rob - these will get a polish when finished and added to the home made tools thread   It will be nice to have made something shiny...