My birthday vise

[PixMan]

Built just like my 2 Kurt 6" Anglock vises from what I can see.

I had a Chinese made 6" copy that I took apart to look at and found they didn't bother to machine the reverse angle and put a hemispherical spot and half-ball piece in there. Another reason I had disassembled it was that I found it was .002" out of parallel on the sliding surfaces of the base when it was mounted on it's swivel base. I checked it again without the swivel base and it was within a 1/2 thousandth of an inch in the 5" sweep.

I had paid $60 for it and sold it off for the same after I got my second Kurt. One is a D675, the other a D60. Both are nearly dead flat. I have no swivel bases for them but don't need one because I can just use the Prototrak control to cut an angle.

[JScott]

Saturday I got the chance to complete the disassembly of my vise.  I pulled the screw and thrust bearing our completely and cleaned everything with mineral spirits.  The thrust bearing had no lubrication in it at all and was somewhat contaminated with the same gray-black grinding dust as the rest of the vise.

The threaded collar that holds the main screw in place is secured with two pointed set screws or grub screws.  The points of the screws were starting to damage the fine threads on the main screw shank.  When I reassembled the threaded I put a small lead ball into the hole first so the set screw pushed on a piece of lead which in turn presses on the threads and prevents damage.

The thrust bearing is a ball bearing style rather than a needle bearing style.  It did not have any lubricant in it at all.  It is a 51103 XC that is 30mm in diameter and 9mm thick.  This is not a high dollar bearing and I found one on fleabay for $2.00 with free shipping.

I reassembled everything with a generous quantity of white lithium grease and 30W oil.  The key and slots for the fixed jaw were reassembled with plenty of anti-seize.

   

   

The vise looks much better now and it operates very smoothly.  I will tram it this week and check it for square, etc.

[PixMan]

Best of luck with it!

You may find that assembling it with "plenty of anti-seize" may affect the square and parallel readings. I might have suggested you just stone the keys and mating keyways a bit to get a less-than-tight fit while maintaining true metal-on-metal contact. If you do find it "out" at all, try taking that anti-seize compound out of there and recheck.

Oh yeah...a brass "shoe" might keep tension better than lead and still not damage the threads. It's the most commonly used method.

[Shawn]

This is what I had to deal with on the vice I got from busy bee tools. The first two pics show the same piece of key stock in both slots, the last is just the original key. I had to mill the slots square and make a new key with a step to accommodate the new wider slot on the base and original slot in the fixed jaw