Now that we have an expert on board ...

[krv3000]

a expert ooooo

[arvidj]

(06-16-2012, 09:23 AM)Rickabilly Wrote: An excellent description of what needs to be done ...

Thank you very much for the detailed explanation. The only other thing you could have done was come here and do it.

If I understand you description and the statements about which side the miters were on the resulting frame would be two inches high. The 45 degree miter will be on the 2 inch sides ... i.e. what I think is the 2.8 inches of weld scenario, and the resulting frame will be six inches high. I hope that makes sense.

If that is the case would there be a change in the order or the location of the welds?

Again thanks for the excellent description,
Arvid

[Rickabilly]

(06-17-2012, 03:24 PM)arvidj Wrote:

(06-16-2012, 09:23 AM)Rickabilly Wrote: An excellent description of what needs to be done ...

Thank you very much for the detailed explanation. The only other thing you could have done was come here and do it.

If I understand you description and the statements about which side the miters were on the resulting frame would be two inches high. The 45 degree miter will be on the 2 inch sides ... i.e. what I think is the 2.8 inches of weld scenario, and the resulting frame will be six inches high. I hope that makes sense.

If that is the case would there be a change in the order or the location of the welds?

Again thanks for the excellent description,
Arvid

The only thing that changes is you can run the Mitre welds in one go, no real need to do it half way then come in from the other to meet in the middle, the reason you need to do that on the long welds is that you want to finish a side (so four welds) before the first one gets too cold, with 8.4"inches of weld the first one would be near room temperature before the last weld was started.

I would do each mitre weld from the inside towards the outside,

Also the whole job is less prone to warpage when you are doing the Mitre across the 2" face, so as long as you follow the diagonal weld order and always start with a 1/16"th gap at the root of your welds you'll be OK

Best Regards
Rick

[Rickabilly]

Incidentally guys, Do you know the Definition of an Expert?

Well, Ex means "a Has been"
and a Spurt is a "Drip under Pressure"

Best Regards
Rick

[November X-ray]

Heres a useful tip for spacing - If you happen to find somewhere where the rail road is installing new ties, see if you can obtain a couple pieces of the heavy banding strap material they use to band the new ties with, and make spacing shims out of them. Cut the banding to make several different lengths from 1 to 2 feet and also take a 12" piece and a 14" piece and weld them together to make a "T" these are really good for spacing tube and pipe, especially when it comes to making a full penetration welds.

On the distortion topic, as mentioned previously, weld a test piece to determine the amount of "draw" for the specified joint, then you can easily correct for it. I used to make I-beam trusses for pre-engineered metal buildings mostly out of 1/4" material and would always tack up the components out of square due to the drawing effect from the continously submerged arc welded fillets along the intersection of the flange and web. Once welded everything was square after it cooled off.