Mini-Lathe Bearing Puller

[rleete]

I'd use a spacer and a vise to press it in. It will straighten out as it goes in.

[EdK]

(06-11-2023, 07:19 PM)Highpower Wrote: I would use the brass drift on the high side of the outer race to see if you can knock it "straight" again and then continue with pressing it into the bore of the head stock.

This worked!

What's the procedure for setting the preload?

Ed

[Highpower]

Slowly tighten the spindle nut until any end play is eliminated in the shaft movement. Turn the spindle with your hand and get a feel of how easy it is to turn especially when starting from a dead stop. Tighten the spindle nut just a smidge and turn the spindle again to feel for a change in resistance. You want to get to the point when you can feel just a SLIGHT amount of drag when you turn the spindle. Just like you want to feel a slight amount of drag on a feeler gauge when setting the gap on spark plugs for example. You can always tighten it a bit later if it loosens up after running in. Better a bit loose than too tight.

It would be nice if we had a starting torque spec (5 - 8 in.lbs.?) to set the preload on these machines but I haven't seen anyone attempt do the math on that as of yet.

[EdK]

(06-12-2023, 08:48 AM)Highpower Wrote: Slowly tighten the spindle nut until any end play is eliminated in the shaft movement. Turn the spindle with your hand and get a feel of how easy it is to turn especially when starting from a dead stop. Tighten the spindle nut just a smidge and turn the spindle again to feel for a change in resistance. You want to get to the point when you can feel just a SLIGHT amount of drag when you turn the spindle. Just like you want to feel a slight amount of drag on a feeler gauge when setting the gap on spark plugs for example. You can always tighten it a bit later if it loosens up after running in. Better a bit loose than too tight.  

It would be nice if we had a starting torque spec (5 - 8 in.lbs.?) to set the preload on these machines but I haven't seen anyone attempt do the math on that as of yet.

Thanks, that's the way I thought it should be done but wanted to make sure.  

Ed

[EdK]

It's starting to look like a lathe again. I got the preload set. It's noisier with the metal gears in the head stock as expected. Especially on the high gear, which I've never actually used.

Ed

   

[Highpower]

Looking good.

[EdK]

It's back together to a usable state. The first thing I need to make on it is a spacer that's used in the spindle that presses against the left end bearing. It's plastic and was probably OK used with the ball bearings but with the angular contact bearings that's not going to be a good idea since they need to be preloaded.

It's pretty noisy. I'll use it as is and see if I can tolerate it.

Ed

   

[Highpower]

(06-14-2023, 03:26 PM)EdK Wrote: It's pretty noisy. I'll use it as is and see if I can tolerate it.

Ed

Did you grease up those Hi / Lo gears before putting the head stock back on?

[EdK]

(06-14-2023, 09:22 PM)Highpower Wrote:

(06-14-2023, 03:26 PM)EdK Wrote: It's pretty noisy. I'll use it as is and see if I can tolerate it.

Ed

Did you grease up those Hi / Lo gears before putting the head stock back on?

Yup, with Red & Tacky.

People that have objected to the noise replaced one of the two gears with a plastic one and that cut way down on the noise. The intermediate shaft gear would be the easiest.

Ed

[Highpower]

(06-14-2023, 10:05 PM)EdK Wrote: Yup, with Red & Tacky.

People that have objected to the noise replaced one of the two gears with a plastic one and that cut way down on the noise. The intermediate shaft gear would be the easiest.

Ed

Good choice with the Red & Tacky.

Yeah, I've seen those comments too. I have to wonder how long they tried using the all metal gears to let them "wear in" before going back to the plastic countershaft gears? I haven't installed mine yet so maybe the noise is much worse than I imagined. I had planned on just turning on the lathe and letting it run outside until the decibels started coming down.

Perhaps one day you'll invest in a 3-D printer that uses metal powder and you can print out a set of helical gears for the lathe. I'm a bit disappointed that Little Machine Shop hasn't contracted with a company already to do just that. I bet they would sell a bunch of them. I'm sure you will be quite pleased with the upgraded bearings though. Back when I swapped mine to tapered roller bearings the lathe became much more user friendly. I don't know if I'll ever be able to get to swap out the gears and bearings again, but at least the parts are here if I get the chance.