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(09-03-2012, 09:40 PM)Highpower Wrote: Yeah, I know you are right Ken. The problem is I don't have the proper boring bars for that.
You DO have the borring bars for that. In fact, one is in the head now.
Just insert into the boring head with the pointy part pointing up, and use it with the UP feed on the machine.
I works in a case like this because you don't have a full circumference radius to bore.
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(09-03-2012, 07:19 PM)toolingjim Wrote: Nice work there. I did similar on my milldrill but used a 3/4" end mill for the finger scallops. I also added a thin plastic thrust washer under the knob when I noticed the metal knob was getting scraped up when I tightened it. By the way, I also built a quick adjusting handle at the same time to replace the three spoke handle that I wounded awhile ago. Worked out pretty well too.
OK Jim. Now you're committed. We need to see pictures of your mods. Please start a thread in the "Mills" section showing your mods. Please.
Thanks,
Ed
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(09-03-2012, 11:02 PM)PixMan Wrote: (09-03-2012, 09:40 PM)Highpower Wrote: Yeah, I know you are right Ken. The problem is I don't have the proper boring bars for that.
You DO have the borring bars for that. In fact, one is in the head now.
Just insert into the boring head with the pointy part pointing up, and use it with the UP feed on the machine.
I works in a case like this because you don't have a full circumference radius to bore.
Ken,
Nice tip on boring on the up-stroke. I would have never thought of doing that.
Ed
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(09-03-2012, 11:02 PM)PixMan Wrote: I works in a case like this because you don't have a full circumference radius to bore.
Ken, it's time for me to learn something else I didn't know then.
Why does this UP feed work for an arc, but not a full circumference? How is it different from boring a cylinder on the down stroke?
Something to do with the dovetail on the boring head, or the bearings in the mill head? I don't have the faintest.....
Willie
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