Disc sander build

[Pete O]

(10-03-2018, 08:27 AM)Vinny Wrote: I used static convertors on both my pedestal grinder and surface grinder. I didn't build 'em tho, only needed small ones so I bought them. The ones all the tool suppliers sell for $100+, the manufacturer sells the same one on ebay for $40. That's the route I took. Never had a problem with either grinder not having enough power.

I guess I don't go into tool suppliers very much Vinny, there aren't that many anywhere near me who have the kind of tools I might be interested in. For example I went into 4 tool suppliers today and none of them had 12" sanding discs- I've had to order online from interstate. I wasn't aware of cheap phase converters as an off-the-shelf product, might have gone down that path if I had known they existed. The electricals have been the biggest expense on this thing, actually they've been about the only expense on it when I think about it as everything else has been made from materials I had on hand. I had the contactor and timer left over from the RPC but the capacitors cost a bomb. Even the plastic box was over twenty bucks. After I read your post I had a look on Aus ebay, couldn't see an equivalent product for this market.

[Vinny]

Oh, I don't go into them. I check them out online. The only one even remotely near me is Wholesale Tool http://www.wttool.com and while I've been there a number of times, they mostly end up shipping stuff to me if I don't find it cheaper elsewhere.

[Pete O]

I got the frame finished today, gave it a coat of Ford Tractor Blue, I had to paint a couple of shelf brackets to go on the frame of the the pottery wheel so I went with the same colour.
   

I have to fit the vertical head to my mill- something I was hoping not to have to do again- to slot the table supports.

[Pete O]

I got the slots milled in the tilt adjusters; one of those times when two cheap milling vices are handy. The two adjusters are each 275mm long, I worked at each end of the 1100mm piece of stock I had so I could grip the piece so the slot was between the two vices.
   

I used a dodgy method to put a nice radius on the ends
   

I'm still waiting on the sanding discs to arrive in the mail but I decided to assemble the sander anyway.
   
   
   
   

The table pivots on two M8 socket-head capscrews, the size of the heads enables them to be below the surface of the table
   
I put a ground finish on the slides, need to give them some kind of corrosion protection.
   

I plan to put some feet under the frame- probably just some nylon discs- then screw a piece of 19mm flooring down on top of the two long frame members so you stand on the frame when using the sander. I had thoughts of putting wheels at the back of the frame so it tilts back onto them but I decided it was unnecessary given I have a fridge trolley and can easily move the thing around on that.

[f350ca]

Looks good Pete. Do you have a reversing switch on the motor? If you work into a corner you need to be able to reverse the disk for the opposite corner.
I made one for the cabinet shop, you never have to push hard on the material, it eats wood, Im usually working near the center of the disk to control the rate of removal.

[TomG]

Nice job Pete.

I've seen radii milled like that, but never tried it myself. It seems like the part would want raise up off the pin.

Tom

[Pete O]

(10-06-2018, 08:41 AM)f350ca Wrote: Looks good Pete. Do you have a reversing switch on the motor? If you work into a corner you need to be able to reverse the disk for the opposite corner.
I made one for the cabinet shop, you never have to push hard on the material, it eats wood, Im usually working near the center of the disk to control the rate of removal.

That is good to know Greg, I think I may even have a reversing switch somewhere that I can add to the circuit. I was going to take a vote as to which way it should run- I guess 'both ways' will win.

(10-06-2018, 08:42 AM)TomG Wrote: Nice job Pete.

I've seen radii milled like that, but never tried it myself. It seems like the part would want raise up off the pin.

Tom

Perhaps I should have taken a close-up photo of the radius setup Tom. The pivot was a bolt with a nyloc nut on the other end (underneath) to avoid the endmill flutes lifting the workpiece up. I was a bit nervous of the whole setup but thought it was worth it as a learning exercise. I made sure I was holding the bar in a direction such that a 'grab' would pull it out of my hand rather than fling it into my chest. Started with the endmill just touching the corners, then fed it in .020 for each swing. It was easier than expected, on the second end I took .040 cuts without any difficulty. The limiting factor was the bar hitting the column, this prevented it coming off cut at the start of the last two passes. I contemplated some kind of setup to do the same thing at the other end- with the slot- but figured I'd be playing with fire, especially as that would have been with short lengths. I bolted the two pieces together so I could radius the other end on the belt sander, following the milled radius of the other piece. That went ok too.

[Pete O]

I got some 60 grit zirconia paper on this thing this week and, as promised, it absolutely eats wood. Also produces a huge amount of fine sawdust. I made up some feet from some offcuts of delrin so the fridge trolley can get under it. I had two pieces of 40mm delrin, one black and one white, that were both just long enough to get 3 feet out of, so the disc sander has a dark side. The only thing left to do is cut the scrap piece of floorboard to size and fix it to the base, my table saw is buried under a pile of other junk at present so the piece of board can just sit there until I get the table saw cleared. I thought I had a reversing switch somewhere but it seems not- I'll keep an eye out for one at the right price. For now I'm calling it finished.