I recently purchased a 9" Troyke rotary table which is a bit stiff to rotate. So I thought I would disassemble it for a good cleaning. I made some headway but am having problems figuring out how to remove the rotating table.
Does anyone have experience with disassembling a Troyke or better yet a manual on disassembly.
I dismantled my rotary table a couple of weeks ago, unknown brand about 16" diameter that I picked up from a clearing sale a few months ago and which had obviously been sitting unused for some years. It was very difficult to separate the rotating table from the base, due to a dry, tight interface on the bronze bush that the table rotates in. Yours might have the same problem seeing that it is stiff to rotate. I turned the base upside down and clamped it to the bench on some blocks so that there was clearance under the rotating part, sprayed some penetrating oil around the perimeter of the bush and let it stand for a few days, then gave it some gentle persuasion with a soft hammer whilst rotating it back and forth.
Lathe (n); a machine tool used in the production of milling machine components.
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I found this on another forum when I Googled "troyke rotary table".
"Remove the table lock screw and there is a loose pin with a tapered end behind it that has to come out.. May have to use a magnet.
Back off the backlash adjuster screw so the worm can rotate away from the table gear. Must be backed off disengage the gears. There may be two seperate screws, one stops the worm pivot from going too far. also possible that screw is behind the main screw.
If you intend on taking out the worm shaft check for a set screw holding the pivot shoulder screw in.
Should be a nut on the main spindle on the bottom side to be removed. If the spindle is worn it can be tough to get the table out and you may have to tap screw holes to jack out the cast sleeve first."
Thanks for the responses, guys. I tried to attach 2 pics but I get an error message that the pic file is too large.
EdK, thanks for the post. I got the worm drive out and got that cleaned up. The poster you quoted mentions a nut on the bottom of the table. To me that is a hex head of some size; I don't have that. I do have a flat plate which rotates with the table. It is only about 1/4" thick and has 2 set screws drilled in from the side about 30 degrees apart (a funny arrangement). I have those backed out and tried using a punch to move the table but no luck. It has two blind holes 90 degrees apart so maybe it is the nut and it needs a pin wrench of some type to remove it.
If anyone can tell me how to reduce the size of a picture file, I'll send the pics.
I use a graphic editor called gimp. It's a bit overkill for it but it works nicely. It's available for Linux, mac and windows at http://www.thegimp.org or just http://www.gimp.org. Don't remember which it is right now. Probably the latter.
As to the round disc on the bottom of your table, yes that is the nut. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to remove it on mine. It shouldn't be that tight 'cuze if it is the table won't turn. If the nut still doesn't want to turn you may need to back the set screws out a little further.
I want to thank everyone for their help in educating me on the Troyke rotary table. I am attaching some pics of the table so that anyone else with similar questions can see what I did. I re-took the pics using my cell phone and the files are not getting rejected as too large.
In any event the large flat flange on the bottom of the table is, indeed, a nut. It has two shallow holes drilled in its face for a pin wrench which I made using a length of steel pipe and two 5/16th bolts. I thought it would be a bear to remove but it came off very easily. The table just lifts out after the nut is off.
I am in the process of cleaning off what appears to be 30-40 years of accumulated gunk; lots of mineral spirits and elbow grease. But it is coming along and I hope to get it back together today.
