Boyar-Shultz 612 Surface Grinder

[Dr Stan]

(11-13-2015, 10:14 PM)Vinny Wrote: Thanks for the video link.  That was really helpful.

Soluble oil was what I was supposed to use for tap busting.  I'll have to look into keeping the bacteria out.  What do you think of using something like Kool-Mist for griinding?

Kool-Mist is probably just fine, I'd make sure you're using the correct concentration for grinding thus the need for a refractometer.  Make sure the system is clean to begin with and if it ever does become contaminated thoroughly clean it with a very strong chlorine bleach solution.

One can also purchase wafers/tablets/additives to help forestall bacterial growth.  I know Travers Tool carries such products so I expect they are also available from any supplier that sells cutting fluids.  Some just add bleach which is not a good idea as it really screws up the Ph level and contributes to rusting.

[TomG]

Vinnie,

I had a static converter on my mill when I first got it and it didn't work very well. The motor wouldn't develop any where near the rated horsepower with it and I ended up replacing it with a rotary. You may be ok on a grinder, as long as you don't try to take too heavy a cut. A wide wheel may stall the motor if you push it too hard.

Tom

[Sunset Machine]

I took an old single phase 56C frame motor to the bandsaw and made it fit the surface grinder. Works fine. There was a rubber drive coupling in there that was disintegrated, looks like it ran for quite a while metal on metal, all beat up. Might check yours -- just grab the wheel with your hand and rotate/shake it back and forth, listen for the banging sounds. Tough to replace, it was only $7 but might have been why they scrapped my grinder.

[Vinny]

Tom, I have the same static converter on my pedestal grinder and aside from some starts where it doesn't come fully up to speed it works great. When it does act up, power off and immediately back on solves that.

Sunset, just checked that and it's fine, but this one is also a belt drive. I do have to replace the bushings on the X handle. Bearing bronze ain't cheap -$5/inch at Speedy, but I have to replace them.

[Dr Stan]

A free surface grinder & you're #itching about the price of bronze to make a new bushing.    

Try here:  http://www.shapirosupply.com/

[Vinny]

Yeah, but I'd prolly #itch if I was hung with a new rope.

I called speedy and ordered the bronze and some other stuff. When you call rather than use the website it's considerably cheaper. The bronze was about half the price.

[Roadracer_Al]

Good tip on calling. I'll have to remember that.

[Vinny]

The price for my order online was about $73 online. $51 over the phone. Shipping was cheaper too. Only thing, if you order Fire Sale items, that's the price you get. Someone on the 7x lathe list clued me in on this.

[Vinny]

This grinder has a place to attach a vacuum on the wheel's housing. Last nite I finished making the attachment for it and when I went to mount it the bolts wouldn't tighten. They look like they should be 1/4-20 but the hole itself is 0.250" (as measured with a caliper) and the bolt just slides right in. 5/16 is too big. I thought maybe they were stripped but looking in there the threads are nice and sharp. Since this is a US made machine and nothing on it is metric, what are the odds that this is metric? M7 maybe? I can't get the thread gage in the hole, it's too small. One other thing, there are two other threaded holes in it for the wheel's cover that ARE 1/4-20. Would they have used some bastard size so people would have to buy the kit from them?

[wawoodman]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GB03...SMZS1QHRK0


One of these is about the most-grabbed things in the shop!