Boyar-Shultz 612 Surface Grinder
#11
$10 and it didn't even come with the cabinet... Ya got took. Cool

I have it's close relative, a Challenger. Looks the same but the wheel guard is square, takes 8" wheels but I run 7's in it cuz they're cheaper.

Wheel selection chart attached.  46J's do a decent job, 60's will get very shiny.


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.pdf   Select the Right Grinding Wheel.pdf (Size: 680.45 KB / Downloads: 19)
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#12
As to delta or wye, motors consist of separate coils that can be connected either way. Open up the junction box and see if three coil wires (and only three, and no power leads) are joined together - "wye". Power leads would then go one to a wire on the other end of each coil. Three groups of three wires says "delta". Dual voltages use more coils and wires.

Why does it matter? 'Twere me, I'd toss a small 3-phase on the floor and hook it up to see if the thing flies.


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#13
(11-12-2015, 09:35 AM)dallen Wrote: I won't say its a better deal, but I met a guy that lives a couple miles from me that has a surface grinder that I was told I can use when I need one.

Vinny Nice Score that diffenately deserves a big You Suck

Sounds like a better deal to me. Kind of like watching someone else's kids. It's all the fun, but you can send them home when you are done playing with them and someone else is responsible for the maintenance.

Tom
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#14
Yea you defiantly deserve multiple  You Suck

BTW, do not expect to get by with just one wheel.  Different applications (hardened tool steel, soft cast iron, etc) really require different wheels, especially on a small surface grinder.  Not to be an a$$hat, but do you know about ringing a grinding wheel to check for cracks?

Don't forget to get/make a diamond dresser and adding a coolant system is very easy.  Make sure you use a refractometer for your coolant and try to keep the bacteria out of the system.  I'm going to add an aquarium pump and a blubber to mine to see if that helps.
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#15
I'm going to jump on the You Suck band wagon.   You Suck You Suck

I'd give it a ***very*** thorough going over before you replace the cord. Cutting the cord was one method of rendering harmless dangerously damaged equipment.
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#16
Al, this one was taken out of service. The cord was cut so they could use it on the replacement. It went to an overhead bus.

Stan, I know about ringing but don't recall ever doing it and don't even remember how. I usually just turn it on from afar. Learning the ring method would definitely be a plus. I'll probably make a dresser, I have a single point diamond for dressing bench grinders but have a hard time getting it flat, so I'll be grabbing one more suitable for that and use this one for the one I make.

Sunset, I haven''t opened the motor cover yet but I will be in the next day or so. I have it inside and on the bench now. He had the cabinet but wanted it for the grinder he was about to get. He said I can have it if the new one doesn't sit well with it. Thanks for the wheel info. I was wondering how to decypher that.

Tom, as I've said here before, I'm a cheapskate! Looks like I'll need a few wheels anyway.,

I did notice tonite that the X feed shaft has a TON of slop in it so it looks like I'll be making a new bush for it. Haven't taken it out yet to see what I'll need tho. I could probably just leave it as is, but I know that with that much slop that just turning the wheel I'd no doubt lift the table a couple thou so that will be fixed. Also the Y feed has a thumbwheel screw that locks it into position, it's frozen in place so that will have to be freed.

It also has a place for a vacuum but no fitting on it for the hose to connect, so I'll be making one of them. It also has a mount for a lamp and I have a lamp here with a broken post. The two of them are definitely going to get very friendly :)
Logan 200, Index 40H Mill, Boyer-Shultz 612 Surface Grinder, HF 4x6 Bandsaw, a shear with no name, ...
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#17
Almost forgot, Stan I was planning on making a coolant system that I can move from one machine to another. I think someone here posted plans. I may go a simpler route and make one for the mill, grinder and the Logan 200. The bacteria issue is one of the things stopping me from making an EDM. I learned EDM and tap busting back when I was 15 (my dad worked at a small EDM shop when he'd be on strike at GM). My dad taught me EDM and the owner of the shop taught me tap busting. The thing holding me back is the bacteria 'cuze neither would be used enough to keep the coolant clean.
Logan 200, Index 40H Mill, Boyer-Shultz 612 Surface Grinder, HF 4x6 Bandsaw, a shear with no name, ...
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#18
Checking the wheel is pretty simple Vinny. Let it hang loosely on a shaft through the hole and gently tap the rim with something like the handle of a screw driver. It will ring a little if its good, if you get a dead thud sound it probably has a crack.
And you still Suck
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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#19
(11-13-2015, 12:56 AM)f350ca Wrote: Checking the wheel is pretty simple Vinny. Let it hang loosely on a shaft through the hole and gently tap the rim with something like the handle of a screw driver. It will ring a little if its good, if you get a dead thud sound it probably has a crack.
And you still Suck

ditto

Here's a good video on ringing a wheel:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDtL4gisZYo

As to coolant systems.  I purposely use a mineral lard oil/diesel fuel mix in my lathe & mill to help keep down the bacteria.  On the surface grinder I use soluble oil as the other reduces the effectiveness of the grinding wheel.

One place I worked had a huge central coolant system that was filled with staph.  Stand alone systems are much easier to deal with.
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#20
Thanks for the video link. That was really helpful.

Soluble oil was what I was supposed to use for tap busting. I'll have to look into keeping the bacteria out. What do you think of using something like Kool-Mist for griinding?
Logan 200, Index 40H Mill, Boyer-Shultz 612 Surface Grinder, HF 4x6 Bandsaw, a shear with no name, ...
the nobucks boutique etsy shop  |  the nobucks boutique
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