I make these from scrap and pass them out at work. We always need bigger transfer punches for plates with big holes to mark on blank plates to be drilled. Just use a smaller transfer punch in this bigger pointed bushing to mark the center hole. I have them to 2"...Bob
Bob Wright
Metal Master Fab
Salem Ohio
Birthplace of the Silver and Deming drill bit.
5 Lathes, SBL Shaper, Lewis Mill, 7 drill presses, 5 welders...
(04-10-2012, 08:04 PM)aametalmaster Wrote: I make these from scrap and pass them out at work. We always need bigger transfer punches for plates with big holes to mark on blank plates to be drilled. Just use a smaller transfer punch in this bigger pointed bushing to mark the center hole. I have them to 2"...Bob
Bob,
Does the taper part of the bushing fit the hole in the template plate or the O.D. of the bushing? What method do you use for hardening the punch? What is the side hole in the bushing for, or maybe was there in the scrap piece?
Thanks,
Paul
pjf134, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Feb 2012.
Great idea Bob. I have one 3/16 transfer punch and a drawer full of bushings I've made for different sized holes. One of yours would fit the bunch.
Greg
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
(04-10-2012, 08:04 PM)aametalmaster Wrote: I make these from scrap and pass them out at work. We always need bigger transfer punches for plates with big holes to mark on blank plates to be drilled. Just use a smaller transfer punch in this bigger pointed bushing to mark the center hole. I have them to 2"...Bob
Bob,
Does the taper part of the bushing fit the hole in the template plate or the O.D. of the bushing? What method do you use for hardening the punch? What is the side hole in the bushing for, or maybe was there in the scrap piece?
Thanks,
Paul
The piece was scrap and i kept it for myself. Just something from the junk box. The punch is from a kit that has ones from 1/16-1/2". Now mine has a 1/4" hole and i filed the writing off an old tap and use it as a punch since it has a nice point already...Bob
Bob Wright
Metal Master Fab
Salem Ohio
Birthplace of the Silver and Deming drill bit.
5 Lathes, SBL Shaper, Lewis Mill, 7 drill presses, 5 welders...
Bob,
The taper part of the bushing has me wondering why it is needed while a chamfer is all that is needed. Was the taper on the bushing on the scrap piece? Good idea otherwise on the bushing.
Paul
pjf134, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Feb 2012.
(04-11-2012, 09:27 AM)pjf134 Wrote: Bob,
The taper part of the bushing has me wondering why it is needed while a chamfer is all that is needed. Was the taper on the bushing on the scrap piece? Good idea otherwise on the bushing.
Paul
The taper is for holes under 1" from like 3/8"-1" it should have all the bases covered...Bob
Bob Wright
Metal Master Fab
Salem Ohio
Birthplace of the Silver and Deming drill bit.
5 Lathes, SBL Shaper, Lewis Mill, 7 drill presses, 5 welders...
(04-11-2012, 09:27 AM)pjf134 Wrote: Bob,
The taper part of the bushing has me wondering why it is needed while a chamfer is all that is needed. Was the taper on the bushing on the scrap piece? Good idea otherwise on the bushing.
Paul
The taper is for holes under 1" from like 3/8"-1" it should have all the bases covered...Bob
How do you make sure you are holding the punch at an exact right angle to the work with the tapered nose? It seems like you could have it cocked slightly and your punch mark won't end up exactly where you want it.
How do you make sure you are holding the punch at an exact right angle to the work with the tapered nose? It seems like you could have it cocked slightly and your punch mark won't end up exactly where you want it.
Thanks,
Ed
I have a trained eye ;) But you are right...Bob
Bob Wright
Metal Master Fab
Salem Ohio
Birthplace of the Silver and Deming drill bit.
5 Lathes, SBL Shaper, Lewis Mill, 7 drill presses, 5 welders...