air engine
#1
hi all just started me new engine its based on a air cylinder that i got from work its 37mm long by 25 square the first job was to fill in the threw holes that went threw it i filed them with that two part epoxy putty once hard direst it off flush then started work on the valve body i had a lump of bronze that wood do the job i set it up in the lathe and turned it dawn to 37mm the depth of the block is 45mm the cylinder has two holes in it for air in and out so first job was to mack them out on to the bronze and drill them their 4mm then marked up and drilled m3 for the valve ports then from both ends drilled m3 to link up the port hole and the valve port then started work on the valve chest this is made out of brass 20mm deep by 37mm long by 13mm thick from the face 8.5mm up then drilled both ends 7.6mm for the gland and tale support made the gland out of bronze 8mm by 10mm with a 4mm step to go in to the valve chest this was drilled all the way threw 2.8mm then reamed m3 for the valve rod then drilled m5 by 8mm deep and then taped m6 right pics


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krv3000, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Feb 2012.
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#2
Be a nice quiet runner that one Bob
Are you going for vertical

John
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#3
no its gowning to be horizontal
krv3000, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Feb 2012.
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#4
I was just wondering what you had been up to Bob and it loks like you have been keeping yourself busy Big Grin Hope your happy with progress so far.
Cheers Mick
Micktoon, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun since Sep 2012.
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#5
Graemlin
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
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#6
hi all well i finished of the valve chest i drilled the center then cut it out then filed it then drilled it and the chest cover and valve block 2.1mm then drilled the cylinder 1.6mm then taped m2 i got mick to order me sum 2mm threaded rod of the net cut the rod over size then bolted the lot together all looks well next to do is the valve valve nut the Cross head crank shaft any way sum pics of the work dun so far and a pic of the piston


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krv3000, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Feb 2012.
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#7
Graemlin , Its getting there Bob, wont be long until its running Smile
Cheers Mick.
Micktoon, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun since Sep 2012.
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#8
Coming along nicely Thumbsup
Smiley-eatdrink004
DaveH
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#9
hi its bin a long time a go when I started this engine but with the whether piking up a bit I have dun a bit more to it I marked out the base for the cylinder to go and where the bering  post's to go and drilled them made up the two bering post's they where 15 mm thick but I have slimed them dawn to 12.5 mm I mad up the crank using 5 mm rod as its going to run on berings any way her is sum pics


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krv3000, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Feb 2012.
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#10
right a bit more mad up the connecting rod sos not many picks as I got cared a way but a new way of picking up your pop punch  marks is use a needle a long one in your tale stock chuck I tried to tack a pic of this but it is a bit fuzzy but the way it works is when the needle is in the ded  centre of the pop punch  and you spin the lathe chuck the needle will stay still if its not in the centre it will wobble any way drilled 1.6 mm and then tapped m2 then split the block in two then stuck the two haves on to a peace of aluminium and direst the two cut parts daw to size  then screwed the two back to gether and marked out the centre for the big end this was drilled 4.8mm then reemd m5 then marked out the centre for a length  of m6 brass rod to be screwed on to the big end  then mad a start on the cros hed made up two pieces of 10mm by 10mm by 30mm long then on one marked out the slot cut most of it out then finish it of with a file the slot is 4mm wide  right picks


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