I constantly use the Miller/Hypertherm after market circle cutting jog for the plasma cutter, whether you buy it from Miller or Hyperthem, its the same kit, in a different box. The problem with it is that it is sold as all or nothing, no replacement parts, if you lose or break it, you need to buy another one.
Inside the rotating nozzle head, there is a plastic collar assembly that rotates inside the head assembly, that hold the nozzle rigidly vertical, but allows it to rotate to make the cut. These plastic pieces melt at an alarming rate, so today I made the collars out of aluminum. Not a huge project, but as the basic kit is $150 and the deluxe kit is about $230, 25 minutes with a lathe and a scrap chunk of aluminum, I made 2 of them and I'm back in operation.
The only original I got left, with black collar assembly, and the modified one with the aluminum collar
Any chance of the torch arcing through the aluminum adapter instead of following the desired path out the nozzle? I had that happen once when I used a metal washer as a depth stop on my nozzle, held in place by the ceramic tip. The current arced up past the O-ring to the washer.
Mike
If you can't get one, make one.
Hawkeye, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Jan 2013.
(09-01-2013, 05:45 PM)Hawkeye Wrote: Any chance of the torch arcing through the aluminum adapter instead of following the desired path out the nozzle? I had that happen once when I used a metal washer as a depth stop on my nozzle, held in place by the ceramic tip. The current arced up past the O-ring to the washer.
No, the whole nozzle assembly on the Hypertherm 85 is fully insulated, the nozzle is actually dragged on the metal. I believe the plastic rigs are a left over when nozzle wasn't insulated. Also this is a universal kit, I basing all of this on the fact, mine is a Hypertherm.
Yeah. My Miller has an exposed (std) nozzle and tip and I have to use the plastic insert in my torch guide. In the same token, Miller says not to use a metal guide bar / straight edge for making straight cuts because of the possibility of arcing out of the side the tip. I think it's ok to do when using a drag tip and nozzle though. It's been awhile since I looked through the manual.