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Location: Spencer MA USA
04-14-2013, 07:42 AM
(This post was last modified: 04-14-2013, 07:43 AM by PixMan.)
Looks like you may need a solid carbide ball mill and an end mill. There are a couple of companies who send me e-mail on a regular basis with special pricing on such things, at least once a week. What size ball mill and what size end mill would you need? I can check the e-mails I got and see if they've got specials.
Also, I check Ebay. You need a carbide TiAlN-coated tool, preferably sub-micron grade carbide. I'm no different than most of you, and certainly not as creatively talented or motivated as most. I just have a few years of using the stuff at work, adding years of reading free trade magazines and other sources to learn more. Nothing I know couldn't be learned easily and free.
Just because you could buy a suitable product for 1/200th of what it cost to make it ourselves has rarely stopped any home shop guy. Why let economic sense get in the way now?
Posts: 4,495
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Location: Missouri, USA
(04-14-2013, 07:42 AM)PixMan Wrote: Just because you could buy a suitable product for 1/200th of what it cost to make it ourselves has rarely stopped any home shop guy. Why let economic sense get in the way now?
Not having a paycheck will do that to a guy. I'm
lucky if I get to buy an old rusty, pitted shaper/planer gauge these days.
Two of the flutes have a 5/32" radius.
One slot is 9/64" wide at the base, and the other two are 3/32" at the base. All three of the "square" slots have tapered sides.
I checked my collection of carbide. A grand total of 3 end mills - 1/8", 3/16" and 3/8" square cutting solid carbide. They are not coated and I don't have a clue of what grade of carbide they might be. At least they are USA made.
I just can't afford to throw good money after bad. I'm still kinking myself for buying this stubby shank in the first place. But it's my own fault and another lesson learned.
Willie
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Location: Central Mass.
You know.......that piece may very well be just case hardened which most likely is in the mid 50's. Once you get through the .020"-.030" deep case, it will be as soft as the base material.
A lot depends on the base material as to what method and how hard it was heat treated. If it was through hardened, you're in for a battle without the proper mills.
If there's a spot on there you can run a small carbide drill into, you would see a change in the chips once it breaks through the case. If that is the case (no pun intended) you should have no problem doing what you want to provided you have a decent enough end mill to remove the case hardened areas.
Just a thought......
Best Regards,
Russ
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Location: Missouri, USA
04-14-2013, 08:36 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-14-2013, 08:40 PM by Highpower.)
I suppose it could be surface hardened only. The shank is designed to only spin a drill chuck - and not to be used with the hammer function in a rotary hammer/drill. Good point Russ. The downside to that is I
want it for hammering on things!
I didn't find out about the no hammering clause until after I had already bought it.
Since the shank is already threaded, my plan was to make up a hammer head or two that I could just screw onto it, and they would be easy to replace.
I guess the only way to find out is to try cutting into it with a bit that I have and see what happens.
Willie
