Home Anodizing Set-up

[TomG]

OK, so I couldn't wait until tomorrow. As it turns out, there is an auto tune routine in the controller and after running it, the controller works like a champ. It now holds the temp within 1º of the set point. I can think of lots of uses for these little gem around the home and shop, my heat treat furnace for one, and for temp control in homebrewing. At $32.50, they are a heck of a deal.

Tom

[EdK]

(03-23-2013, 10:35 PM)TomG Wrote: ...for temp control in homebrewing. At $32.50, they are a heck of a deal.

Tom

Tom,

Do you have a link to the device?

Thanks,
Ed

[TomG]

Yes Ed, the controllers came from Lightobject. They have various versions depending on application and power, along with lots of other really cool stuff.

Tom

[DaveH]

Tom,
How or what did you use to seal the heating element passing through the plastic bucket?

DaveH

[TomG]

Dave,

The elements came with silicone washers installed and they seem to work well. I was torn between mounting them as I did and having to breech the side of the bucket, or hanging them from a bracket above. The thought of 230V above and that close to the liquid level scared me and I opted to mount them as shown. Hopefully they won't leak.

Tom

[TomG]

I lost an uncle on Friday, so not much happened on the bench this weekend with all the family obligations, but I did manage to finish most of the bubbler system. When I get it installed, I'll photograph and post it.

I also managed to track down the last of the required chemicals, so that's one less task on the list. Here's a rundown:

1) Cleaner - The first step in the process to clean off all grease, oil, buffing compound, etc. I used Cleaner 740 from U.S. Specialty Color Corp.

2) Etch - A solution of sodium hydroxide (lye) to remove old anodizing or to give the parts a matte finish. The lye came from Essential Depot

3) Deoxidizer/Desmut Solution - to remove any metals other than aluminum from the surface of the parts, a must on 2024. I used Deoxidizer 982 from U.S. Specialty Color Corp.

4) Battery Acid - Mixed with water to form a 15% solution. From NAPA Auto Parts.

5) Dye - The parts a dyed after the anodizing process if desired. I ordered blue, red, orange and black to start from U.S. Specialty Color Corp.

6) Sealer - A mid temp nickel acetate solution to close the pores in the anodizing, increasing the hardness, stain resistance and fade resistance on dyed parts. Sealant MTL from U.S. Specialty Color Corp.

7) Distilled Water - To make up all of the solutions and for rinsing, 35 gallons to start. From Home Depot

The stuff from U.S. Specialty Color cost a bit more up front than I had planned, due to their minimum orders, but the end prices are significantly lower than those form the middle men, they are nice people to deal with as well. If you can justify the larger quantities it is definitely worthwhile to buy from them.

Tom

[Tony Wells]

Sorry to hear about your uncle, Tom.

Your anodizing setup is coming together nicely. A friend of mine in Houston shut his lines down a few years ago, but I'm sure he still has resources, so if you have trouble finding anything, I'll be glad to ask him for you.

[Mayhem]

Sorry to hear about your Uncle Tom - was it the one with the Steven's?

[TomG]

Thanks Tony. I think I have everything tracked down, just need to make it all happen.

No Darren, the Steven's uncle is still kicking. That side of the family is like a house of cards though, they are all about the same age and getting old.

Tom

[TomG]

The task for the evening was to finish up bubblers for the ten tanks. I used 1/2" CPVC pipe and fittings to withstand the elevated temperatures. The bubblers are simply a manifold that lays in the bottom of the tank with holes to create bubbles that rise of the sides of the tank, agitating the solution. The challenge was to keep it compact and close to the bottom so it doesn't get in the way of parts hanging in the tank. Another challenge was getting the pipe through the side of the tank without it leaking. I thought about just going over the top, but I want to be able to use the water tight lids that came with the tanks. I ended up making bulkhead fittings out of some 1/2"NTP threaded adapters. I added a flange and seat for an O-Ring and changed the thread to 3/4-14 so I could use a locking collar on it. I forgot how much fun it is to turn PVC. The only thing left to do is drill the holes and hook the air pump up with Tygon tubing.

Tom