02-16-2019, 02:34 AM
This week's progress:
I machined the sides of the front plate; decided it would look better with a straight edge rather than following the angles of the cheek & top plates, so here's how it interfaces with the front of those components
Not enough there for a useful grip by the time I had cleaned away the oxy cut. Perhaps I should go with Stan's suggestion of a gear drive to extend & retract the overarm. If I live that long.
The front plate with six 5/8 holes drilled with a .050" deep counterbore, also two 10mm dowel holes. All these components are dowelled to ensure they go back precisely where they belong after painting.
The front surface of the cheek & top plates dowelled, drilled and ALMOST tapped 5/8 UNF to accept the front plate. Whilst I had the thing in position on the mill, I also cut the front of the casting itself down to .050" below the face of the three plates, just to ensure it doesn't foul the assembly. Nothing will be affixed to the front end of the casting.
I have two 5/8 x18 UNC taps out of one of those cheapy 200 piece tap & die sets, they are unfortunately not up to the task of tapping all these threads in whatever these mystery metals are. I might have a go at sharpening them- not something I've tried before- but I suspect I'll be up for the cost of a decent quality tap in that size. Until I can sort that out, these bolts won't be going any further home than this.
The bolt holes in the front plate are arranged to clear the final structural component- a cylindrical casting that will have the circular T-slot in the front end to mount the J-head. It needs to protrude about 3" forward of the front plate to enable the horizontal arbor supports- which are 4" thick at the dovetail- to be installed & removed with the J-head in the way.
Monday for me tomorrow- actually Sunday but that's the beauty of an 8-day shift cycle. Hopefully get some more time on this at the end of the week.
I machined the sides of the front plate; decided it would look better with a straight edge rather than following the angles of the cheek & top plates, so here's how it interfaces with the front of those components
Not enough there for a useful grip by the time I had cleaned away the oxy cut. Perhaps I should go with Stan's suggestion of a gear drive to extend & retract the overarm. If I live that long.
The front plate with six 5/8 holes drilled with a .050" deep counterbore, also two 10mm dowel holes. All these components are dowelled to ensure they go back precisely where they belong after painting.
The front surface of the cheek & top plates dowelled, drilled and ALMOST tapped 5/8 UNF to accept the front plate. Whilst I had the thing in position on the mill, I also cut the front of the casting itself down to .050" below the face of the three plates, just to ensure it doesn't foul the assembly. Nothing will be affixed to the front end of the casting.
I have two 5/8 x18 UNC taps out of one of those cheapy 200 piece tap & die sets, they are unfortunately not up to the task of tapping all these threads in whatever these mystery metals are. I might have a go at sharpening them- not something I've tried before- but I suspect I'll be up for the cost of a decent quality tap in that size. Until I can sort that out, these bolts won't be going any further home than this.
The bolt holes in the front plate are arranged to clear the final structural component- a cylindrical casting that will have the circular T-slot in the front end to mount the J-head. It needs to protrude about 3" forward of the front plate to enable the horizontal arbor supports- which are 4" thick at the dovetail- to be installed & removed with the J-head in the way.
Monday for me tomorrow- actually Sunday but that's the beauty of an 8-day shift cycle. Hopefully get some more time on this at the end of the week.
Lathe (n); a machine tool used in the production of milling machine components.
Milling Machine (n); a machine tool used in the production of lathe components.
Milling Machine (n); a machine tool used in the production of lathe components.