05-29-2018, 07:57 PM
You don't want both the taper and the flat to blue up, the D1 spec requires that the cams take up the final fraction of a thou" clearance to get an interference fit on the taper (a good fit should pretty much lock and stay that way when the cams are released, to the extent that you'd need a deadblow hammer or similar to unseat the chuck).
I've always worked to get the taper right, then measured the face clearance by the Silver Rizla method (extra-fine cigarette papers, a few tenths of a thou" thick, between flat faces of the spindle and chuck) - with the taper seated the paper should release unless the cams are tightened, when they should be gripped equally between each pair of camlock pins.
Dave H. (the other one)
I've always worked to get the taper right, then measured the face clearance by the Silver Rizla method (extra-fine cigarette papers, a few tenths of a thou" thick, between flat faces of the spindle and chuck) - with the taper seated the paper should release unless the cams are tightened, when they should be gripped equally between each pair of camlock pins.
Dave H. (the other one)
Rules are for the obedience of fools, and the guidance of wise men...
(Douglas Bader)
(Douglas Bader)