04-21-2016, 11:42 PM
This is a keyway cutter I had to make up to allow a internal keyway to be cut with the 7" Aamco.
I guess it all starts with the bit:
![[Image: groundBit.jpg?dl=0]](https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/znd52mjr6ktlvbi/groundBit.jpg?dl=0)
After trying to cut the small bit on the bench grinder, I decided to use the grinder I use for my tig tungstens (with a different disk of course). These disks are diamond coated and cheap from ebay. I think they were around $4 each. The grinder was $20. The drawback is the center hole must be enlarged to fit the arbor. This setup works great for tig electrodes. It also did a good job with the bit. There are rubber feet under the frame.
![[Image: toolGrinder.jpg?dl=0]](https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/1wzd7pzt0rq9egt/toolGrinder.jpg?dl=0)
Start bit groove:
![[Image: startShaftBitCut.jpg?dl=0]](https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/s2f7fzvyhyab2jk/startShaftBitCut.jpg?dl=0)
Finish bit groove:
![[Image: finishBitCut.jpg?dl=0]](https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/1nfj5k2nw87u84t/finishBitCut.jpg?dl=0)
Drill shaft body:
![[Image: drillShaftBody.jpg?dl=0]](https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/g7r8rpj2q2279xm/drillShaftBody.jpg?dl=0)
Ream shaft body to final size:
![[Image: reamshaftBody.jpg?dl=0]](https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/1do6y66oowiv229/reamshaftBody.jpg?dl=0)
Tap 2 holes for shaft set screws (made adjustable for future use). I used the lathe for this to keep the screws on the same plane. The chuck was turned by hand. It worked great. It is good to have a lathe:)
![[Image: tapShaftBody.jpg?dl=0]](https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/7p38x8bv65ikfwj/tapShaftBody.jpg?dl=0)
Plane off shaft body to make welding the square shank easier. A feeler gauge was used as a shim to make the part cut flat as this was critical:
![[Image: grooveShaftHolder.jpg?dl=0]](https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/5g9pvuz0ohrl2ez/grooveShaftHolder.jpg?dl=0)
The bit holding shaft was planed as well for the set screws:
![[Image: planeShaft.jpg?dl=0]](https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/0gusxn72qtstw71/planeShaft.jpg?dl=0)
Here's the parts ready for welding:
![[Image: partsForAssy.jpg?dl=0]](https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/lva6sl3j9ojqqab/partsForAssy.jpg?dl=0)
Tack it before welding:
![[Image: tackWeld.jpg?dl=0]](https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/wt4fromugzag83w/tackWeld.jpg?dl=0)
The parts were welded completely and the square hole needed some filing to clean it up to fit the bit. On the shaper in the setup position:
![[Image: KeywayCuttingSetup.jpg?dl=0]](https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/hduefveehbne2q5/KeywayCuttingSetup.jpg?dl=0)
That's all.
Mark
I guess it all starts with the bit:
After trying to cut the small bit on the bench grinder, I decided to use the grinder I use for my tig tungstens (with a different disk of course). These disks are diamond coated and cheap from ebay. I think they were around $4 each. The grinder was $20. The drawback is the center hole must be enlarged to fit the arbor. This setup works great for tig electrodes. It also did a good job with the bit. There are rubber feet under the frame.
Start bit groove:
Finish bit groove:
Drill shaft body:
Ream shaft body to final size:
Tap 2 holes for shaft set screws (made adjustable for future use). I used the lathe for this to keep the screws on the same plane. The chuck was turned by hand. It worked great. It is good to have a lathe:)
Plane off shaft body to make welding the square shank easier. A feeler gauge was used as a shim to make the part cut flat as this was critical:
The bit holding shaft was planed as well for the set screws:
Here's the parts ready for welding:
Tack it before welding:
The parts were welded completely and the square hole needed some filing to clean it up to fit the bit. On the shaper in the setup position:
That's all.
Mark