(07-02-2015, 07:39 AM)Kennyv Wrote: No here may be my stumbling block . The 932M runs on 220V not sure if it can run on 110V? is that possible
and if so how much power do I loose?
If not I have to consider bringing 220V out into the garage my current Electrical box is maxed out.. as I already stole the last breaker spot to run a dedicated 20 Amp line . Than wheni got Central air we maxed out this box stealing 2 spots . Another words my box needed to be upgraded to 200 amp service and than I will have to run 220V out to garage. That will run me well over a Gino
Im already stretched on my lathe and mill tooling ect...... not sure I want to go there . I think about moving /retiring one day like to take machines with me . Than when I settle in my retirement house I will add EVERY THING AN ANYTHING TO MY LIKEN
Obviously Matt from Precision Matthews will have the final word so I am just speculating ...
The specs say 220v at 9 amps. That would suggest at 110v it would be 18 amps.
Those are probably "maximum run" draw and you may not actually see that unless you have a heavy cut or come close to stalling the motor. But there is no getting around the fact that "start" loads will be significantly more. As an example my 220v 5hp compressor is rated at 23-27 amps yet draws over 50 when it starts. Admittedly for only a brief second and probably not an issue as most breakers are slow-blow for exactly that reason, but something to consider given you are working close to the maximums the circuit can provide.
It would also suggest that there is not a lot of excess capacity left for other items on the same circuit to also be on ... like if your compressor kicks on or you turn on one too many lights or the garage door opener is used [wife comes home and wants to part the car] or ...
You may also want to consider how much wire is between the mill and the breaker box. Assuming the circuit is on a 20 amp breaker we can assume it is 12 gauge wire. At 18 amps 55 feet of 12 gauge ... that's total from the breaker to the motor, not just to the outlet ... is right at the recommended maximum voltage drop of 3%.
And you would need a 20 amp outlet, not the ubiquitous 15 amp outlets used in most homes and garages. The outlet is easy to change if need be but the wire needs to support the 20 amps, not just the outlet.
Sorry, I know I'm putting a very wet blanket on your ideas but I wanted to go through the thought process.
And as others have pointed out, it might actually start and run well enough to meet your needs until you can rewire the garage.
Arvid