06-12-2015, 02:43 PM
Last of the Jeep long-arm suspension build.
I put the Jeep on the lift and removed all front upper and lower control arms/links for duplication with Clevite bushings at the axle ends and Currie's Johnny Joints at the frame ends. The Clevite rubber incapsulated bushings will be installed into the sleeves that I machined earlier in the week, shown above.
Here is my lower link. I threw together a quick make-shift fixture to ensure setting the new links to the exact same length. I just used a piece of .750" square tubing with a .500" shaft welded at each end which the link slipped onto.
I then mocked up my new sleeve/Clevite bushing and Johnny Joint to calculate the length of the new tubing.
It was at this point the light bulb came on. I had new 1.750"x.250" DOM that I was going to use but where I was going to be using less length than what the original BDS links measured, why not just cut the ends off the BDS links and weld my sleeves and threaded bungs to. This would save me from wasting tubing plus eleviate me from having to bend up the links which would actually save some time.
That is what I did, cut the BDS bushing ends off and re-used the DOM tubing.
Link clamped in my mill to drill a hold all the way through the tubing for rosette/plug welds for the threaded bung/sleeve.
Mocked up on the fixture for a test fit, to ensure I cut enough tube to allow for some adjustment.
Threaded bung welded into tubing.
Few pictures of the front lower two links ready for prep and paint.
I opted to TIG weld the uppers due to the close thinner wall tubing of the Currie weld-on narrow JJ ends.
All front links sanded, prepped and ready for paint.
After allowing the POR-15 to dry overnight I then pressed the Clevite bushings into the machined sleeves on the lower links.
I then applied some anti-seize into the threaded bung as well as on the threads of the Johnny Joint and assembled then placed on my fixture to set to the correct length.
Front upper and lower links assembled and ready for installation back into the Jeep.
Before installation I noticed that on the front lowers the OEM are actually adjustable a small amount buy using an eccentric. This required the through holes to be slightly over-sized for the 14mm bolts. Although the bolts will be tightened and thus eliminating the slop I wanted a little more surface area on the shank of the bolt to eliminate any fore and aft movement once installed. This will give extra support so it is not merely relying on the friction of the clamping force of the fastener.
I machined four spacers that were 14mm inside diameter for the bolt and 1.5" OD by .125" thick. I then placed them onto the lower mounts using the bolts to hold in place while I stitch welded a couple of welds to secure them to the lower mounts.
Front suspension installed. I tightened the frame ends (Johnny Joints) but left the axle ends loose. You do NOT want to tighten the incapsulated rubber style bushings unless you have the vehicle sitting down at ride height, otherwise you will preload stress into the bushings and cause pre-mature wear/failure. I actually set the vehicle down with the nuts threaded on hand tight, drive the vehicle around the block bouncing it to let the suspension "settle in", then pull it back into the shop and tighten the axle ends.
Pictures of the rear following.
Mike.
I put the Jeep on the lift and removed all front upper and lower control arms/links for duplication with Clevite bushings at the axle ends and Currie's Johnny Joints at the frame ends. The Clevite rubber incapsulated bushings will be installed into the sleeves that I machined earlier in the week, shown above.
Here is my lower link. I threw together a quick make-shift fixture to ensure setting the new links to the exact same length. I just used a piece of .750" square tubing with a .500" shaft welded at each end which the link slipped onto.
I then mocked up my new sleeve/Clevite bushing and Johnny Joint to calculate the length of the new tubing.
It was at this point the light bulb came on. I had new 1.750"x.250" DOM that I was going to use but where I was going to be using less length than what the original BDS links measured, why not just cut the ends off the BDS links and weld my sleeves and threaded bungs to. This would save me from wasting tubing plus eleviate me from having to bend up the links which would actually save some time.
That is what I did, cut the BDS bushing ends off and re-used the DOM tubing.
Link clamped in my mill to drill a hold all the way through the tubing for rosette/plug welds for the threaded bung/sleeve.
Mocked up on the fixture for a test fit, to ensure I cut enough tube to allow for some adjustment.
Threaded bung welded into tubing.
Few pictures of the front lower two links ready for prep and paint.
I opted to TIG weld the uppers due to the close thinner wall tubing of the Currie weld-on narrow JJ ends.
All front links sanded, prepped and ready for paint.
After allowing the POR-15 to dry overnight I then pressed the Clevite bushings into the machined sleeves on the lower links.
I then applied some anti-seize into the threaded bung as well as on the threads of the Johnny Joint and assembled then placed on my fixture to set to the correct length.
Front upper and lower links assembled and ready for installation back into the Jeep.
Before installation I noticed that on the front lowers the OEM are actually adjustable a small amount buy using an eccentric. This required the through holes to be slightly over-sized for the 14mm bolts. Although the bolts will be tightened and thus eliminating the slop I wanted a little more surface area on the shank of the bolt to eliminate any fore and aft movement once installed. This will give extra support so it is not merely relying on the friction of the clamping force of the fastener.
I machined four spacers that were 14mm inside diameter for the bolt and 1.5" OD by .125" thick. I then placed them onto the lower mounts using the bolts to hold in place while I stitch welded a couple of welds to secure them to the lower mounts.
Front suspension installed. I tightened the frame ends (Johnny Joints) but left the axle ends loose. You do NOT want to tighten the incapsulated rubber style bushings unless you have the vehicle sitting down at ride height, otherwise you will preload stress into the bushings and cause pre-mature wear/failure. I actually set the vehicle down with the nuts threaded on hand tight, drive the vehicle around the block bouncing it to let the suspension "settle in", then pull it back into the shop and tighten the axle ends.
Pictures of the rear following.
Mike.