05-16-2015, 06:35 PM
Greg - my current lathe has a similar sized spindle bore and no morse taper attachment, so if I ever needed to turn between centres, I would have to turn one up in the chuck and use that.
My understanding of the dog clutch is that is has a single tooth, so it can only ever engage in the one position, thus maintaining the relationship between the spindle and the leadscrew. The lever has Fwd/N/Rev, so slipping it into reverse moves the carriage back to the starting point.
The spindle brake is applied whenever the control lever is placed in the centre (off) position. Currently it isn't braking so that will either mean that the clutch needs adjustment or is shot. Adjustment sounds simple enough and the instructions are on a plate on the rear cover and also in the manual. If shot, my understanding is that you simply get new plates laser cut.
I'm unsure as to the minimum griping diameter of the four-jaw chuck. I have a square ER32 collet block, so anything under 20mm I could put into a collett and then into the chuck.
My understanding of the dog clutch is that is has a single tooth, so it can only ever engage in the one position, thus maintaining the relationship between the spindle and the leadscrew. The lever has Fwd/N/Rev, so slipping it into reverse moves the carriage back to the starting point.
The spindle brake is applied whenever the control lever is placed in the centre (off) position. Currently it isn't braking so that will either mean that the clutch needs adjustment or is shot. Adjustment sounds simple enough and the instructions are on a plate on the rear cover and also in the manual. If shot, my understanding is that you simply get new plates laser cut.
I'm unsure as to the minimum griping diameter of the four-jaw chuck. I have a square ER32 collet block, so anything under 20mm I could put into a collett and then into the chuck.
Hunting American dentists since 2015.