02-09-2015, 11:25 AM
Many years ago I had no idea about them either Darren.
You learn pretty quick though when you have a long pin punch bounce off of a stuck pin, or have the punch slide off to the side due to a glancing hammer blow - and proceed to scar the expensive finish on the part you are trying to remove the pin from.
The shorter, fatter punch gives you much better control of the tip. I have found several great starter punches hidden inside pieces of brass hex stock.
You can wail away on it if you have to for stubborn pins, and if it gets deformed, so what? You have a lathe to 'sharpen' it right? The cup tipped punch on the right is for pins with rounded ends found on many firearms. They prevent flattening the rounded end of the pin with a flat tipped punch and ruining the look of the piece.
![[Image: StarterPunchesCloseup.jpg]](http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm277/SWBird123/StarterPunchesCloseup.jpg)
You learn pretty quick though when you have a long pin punch bounce off of a stuck pin, or have the punch slide off to the side due to a glancing hammer blow - and proceed to scar the expensive finish on the part you are trying to remove the pin from.
The shorter, fatter punch gives you much better control of the tip. I have found several great starter punches hidden inside pieces of brass hex stock.
You can wail away on it if you have to for stubborn pins, and if it gets deformed, so what? You have a lathe to 'sharpen' it right? The cup tipped punch on the right is for pins with rounded ends found on many firearms. They prevent flattening the rounded end of the pin with a flat tipped punch and ruining the look of the piece.
Willie