12-31-2013, 09:22 PM
As I said, the 1950s design had to many loose parts for my tastes. It actually had three toolholders - two ends and one side. Yes, the loose dovetail is pulled in to tighten the toolholder. In use, the Swedish toolpost proves to be extremely solid. It takes less pressure on the nut to lock it up - rather like the drawbar torque on an R8 accessory.
The cast iron was from some large broken pieces that I found at the local scrap yard. Proved to be really good material. As a bonus, the owner let me have them for free. I had just finished wiring his new shop at home and he was pleased to say the least.
My toolholders will have a male dovetail that slides into one of two dovetail slots, as you can see here. (Told you I'd get them cut today. ) The corner farthest from the camera will contain the clamping mechanism. A dovetailed insert will pull in between the two slots to clamp either or both toolholders.
Back to the build. Here's the last pass on the second slot. I made the carbide dovetail cutter when I did the CNC conversion on my X2 mill.
In order to make the cast iron block as large as possible, I left a few rough areas on some of the top corners. A 60* cutter in the horizontal mill finished off the back corners nicely. BTW, I found out what caused those sparks. On a horizontal mill, unlike a vertical, it's pretty easy to put the cutter on backwards.
The cast iron was from some large broken pieces that I found at the local scrap yard. Proved to be really good material. As a bonus, the owner let me have them for free. I had just finished wiring his new shop at home and he was pleased to say the least.
My toolholders will have a male dovetail that slides into one of two dovetail slots, as you can see here. (Told you I'd get them cut today. ) The corner farthest from the camera will contain the clamping mechanism. A dovetailed insert will pull in between the two slots to clamp either or both toolholders.
Back to the build. Here's the last pass on the second slot. I made the carbide dovetail cutter when I did the CNC conversion on my X2 mill.
In order to make the cast iron block as large as possible, I left a few rough areas on some of the top corners. A 60* cutter in the horizontal mill finished off the back corners nicely. BTW, I found out what caused those sparks. On a horizontal mill, unlike a vertical, it's pretty easy to put the cutter on backwards.
Mike
If you can't get one, make one.
Hawkeye, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Jan 2013.
If you can't get one, make one.
Hawkeye, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Jan 2013.