I love those spiral point or "gun" taps, I think the "gun" name derives from the fact that they "shoot" the cuttings forward in front of the tap.
They (we all know who "they" are, right?) claim that the spiral point taps should only be used for "through" holes but I find, if I can tap drill much deeper than I need to tap they'll work OK.
As far as tightening the chuck light enough to allow the tap to slip, I shy away from that because of the potential for damage to the chuck jaws.
I've even gound 3 flats on one of my ¼-20 gun taps.
I often "power start" a tap in the drill press. after drilling I chuck the tap, turn the drill press on, lower the quill to just about entering the whole, then turn off the drill press as I enter the tap into the whole.
Then I release the tap from the chuck and finish the tapping by hand, the idea being to get a good straight start on tapping the hole.
They (we all know who "they" are, right?) claim that the spiral point taps should only be used for "through" holes but I find, if I can tap drill much deeper than I need to tap they'll work OK.
As far as tightening the chuck light enough to allow the tap to slip, I shy away from that because of the potential for damage to the chuck jaws.
I've even gound 3 flats on one of my ¼-20 gun taps.
I often "power start" a tap in the drill press. after drilling I chuck the tap, turn the drill press on, lower the quill to just about entering the whole, then turn off the drill press as I enter the tap into the whole.
Then I release the tap from the chuck and finish the tapping by hand, the idea being to get a good straight start on tapping the hole.
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.