Ed,
An intercooler is a air-to-air radiator between the compressor and the tank. It lowers the temperature of the compressed air before it goes into the tank so there is a better chance of the moisture coming out of the air in the tank rather than in your air lines or in your tools. It is on the outside of the guard that covers the belt between the motor and the compressor. The fan like blades on the compressor pully draw air over it when the compressor is running. I have measured the input and output sides of the intercooler with a HF IR thermometer when it is running and see ~300F and ~90F respectively.
Here is what I did and why, but feel free to do what ever you want as there are multiple ways to mitigate any of the issues that I mention. I consider the compressor to be a significant investment and decisions were made to address what other might consider small or "don't bother with it" details in an effort to protect the investment. After I retire I will not be able to afford to replace it so I wanted to do everything I could to ensure this one really did last "a lifetime".
I put the compressor in the basement for several reasons.
Annual weather conditions based on this information http://weatherspark.com/averages/30956/M...ted-States.
The first was related to temperature as the documentation for the compressor recommended 20 weight oil for the lower temperatures that it would see in the winter if I did not heat the garage and 30 weight oil for the temperatures it would see if I did not have the garage air conditioner on. In the basement the temperature is relatively stable.
I opted for an oil level sensor that goes in the electrical line to the motor. I provides two nice features ... (a) a sight glass so I can see the level of the oil in the compressor and (b) if the level is too low it prevents the compressor from turning on.
The second was humidity. The interior of the house is conditioned and the humidity remains between 35% and 45% all year. Exterior humidity is higher than that much more than it is lower so that was a plus.
Third was that I have an 80 gallon tank and did not have room for it in the garage but did have room for it in the laundry area of the basement.
Other options included a 1750 rpm motor and 875 rpm compressor. The slow speeds bring the noise level way down ... a consideration given that the compressor is "in the house". I also have a muffler on the input side of the compressor to quiet things down. You can still hear it when it comes on but it is no louder than the cloths washer if the load is out of balance and neither Bev nor I actually notice it.
The tank feeds a stainless braided line for vibration and then goes to a water separator\filter, then a very fine filter, then a desiccant moisture remover and finally to a pressure regulator that reduces the 155 - 175 psi in the tank ... low and high set points on the compressor ... to a reasonably constant 135 psi in the distribution system. With an 80 gallon tank, a 18cfm rate compressor and a single user the distribution system very seldom goes below 135.
I have been contemplating a "Franzinator" between the intercooler and the tank to reduce the moisture content in the air but it is wating for a round-to-it for implementation.
And I have gone thru several automated tank drains but have yet to find one that works for more than a couple of months. I have reached the point where I think an Arduino programmed to do exactly what I want and a small electro-mechanical valve is what it is going to take.
For air line plumbing ... hopefully we will avoid the 'use PVC' discussion as it is ... at least in my opinion ... a non-starter based on the dangers involved ... but again it is your life and safety so feel free to do what you want.
I use type 'L' copper tube with silver soldered joints. The choice of copper tube over galvanized or black iron pipe was based simply on 'ease of implementation' in my situation. I do not own a pipe cutter or threader but do have copper tube tools. I plumbed most of the water copper in the house 28 years ago so I have experience with the technology. And the few times that I have been forced to use threaded technology I have had issues with very small leaks. [side note ... Teflon pipe dope ... not tape ... had become a staple in my tool box for such situations]
I use 1 inch as the main feed to 3/4 inch loops in the garage and the basement, and 1/2 inch drops following the ubiquitous pattern Walter recommended.
Arvid
An intercooler is a air-to-air radiator between the compressor and the tank. It lowers the temperature of the compressed air before it goes into the tank so there is a better chance of the moisture coming out of the air in the tank rather than in your air lines or in your tools. It is on the outside of the guard that covers the belt between the motor and the compressor. The fan like blades on the compressor pully draw air over it when the compressor is running. I have measured the input and output sides of the intercooler with a HF IR thermometer when it is running and see ~300F and ~90F respectively.
Here is what I did and why, but feel free to do what ever you want as there are multiple ways to mitigate any of the issues that I mention. I consider the compressor to be a significant investment and decisions were made to address what other might consider small or "don't bother with it" details in an effort to protect the investment. After I retire I will not be able to afford to replace it so I wanted to do everything I could to ensure this one really did last "a lifetime".
I put the compressor in the basement for several reasons.
Annual weather conditions based on this information http://weatherspark.com/averages/30956/M...ted-States.
The first was related to temperature as the documentation for the compressor recommended 20 weight oil for the lower temperatures that it would see in the winter if I did not heat the garage and 30 weight oil for the temperatures it would see if I did not have the garage air conditioner on. In the basement the temperature is relatively stable.
I opted for an oil level sensor that goes in the electrical line to the motor. I provides two nice features ... (a) a sight glass so I can see the level of the oil in the compressor and (b) if the level is too low it prevents the compressor from turning on.
The second was humidity. The interior of the house is conditioned and the humidity remains between 35% and 45% all year. Exterior humidity is higher than that much more than it is lower so that was a plus.
Third was that I have an 80 gallon tank and did not have room for it in the garage but did have room for it in the laundry area of the basement.
Other options included a 1750 rpm motor and 875 rpm compressor. The slow speeds bring the noise level way down ... a consideration given that the compressor is "in the house". I also have a muffler on the input side of the compressor to quiet things down. You can still hear it when it comes on but it is no louder than the cloths washer if the load is out of balance and neither Bev nor I actually notice it.
The tank feeds a stainless braided line for vibration and then goes to a water separator\filter, then a very fine filter, then a desiccant moisture remover and finally to a pressure regulator that reduces the 155 - 175 psi in the tank ... low and high set points on the compressor ... to a reasonably constant 135 psi in the distribution system. With an 80 gallon tank, a 18cfm rate compressor and a single user the distribution system very seldom goes below 135.
I have been contemplating a "Franzinator" between the intercooler and the tank to reduce the moisture content in the air but it is wating for a round-to-it for implementation.
And I have gone thru several automated tank drains but have yet to find one that works for more than a couple of months. I have reached the point where I think an Arduino programmed to do exactly what I want and a small electro-mechanical valve is what it is going to take.
For air line plumbing ... hopefully we will avoid the 'use PVC' discussion as it is ... at least in my opinion ... a non-starter based on the dangers involved ... but again it is your life and safety so feel free to do what you want.
I use type 'L' copper tube with silver soldered joints. The choice of copper tube over galvanized or black iron pipe was based simply on 'ease of implementation' in my situation. I do not own a pipe cutter or threader but do have copper tube tools. I plumbed most of the water copper in the house 28 years ago so I have experience with the technology. And the few times that I have been forced to use threaded technology I have had issues with very small leaks. [side note ... Teflon pipe dope ... not tape ... had become a staple in my tool box for such situations]
I use 1 inch as the main feed to 3/4 inch loops in the garage and the basement, and 1/2 inch drops following the ubiquitous pattern Walter recommended.
Arvid