Rotary project, maybe????

[Rickabilly]

(09-11-2012, 07:39 AM)stevec Wrote: I love the "chamfer" on the upper edge of the slots Claude, did you use a countersink for them?
I always (almost) give a touch of the countersink to holes I drill, especially if they are going to be tapped.

One little tip I was taught in Basic fitting trade course many years ago was to always counter bore the top of any tapped hole, drill it with a standard twist drill, of the nominal thread OD and to the depth of one "pitch".

This is done almost universally on production made tooling and gives that professional touch for nearly no cost, it also protects the top thread from dings, burrs and crushing and helps to start the tap square.

Just a tip,

Really lovely job on this little table Claude,

If I were you, and seeing how well you are able to graduate dials, I would think seriously about a vernier scale to go along with your very pretty degree markings, If you're not familiar with the method of plotting the correct spacings for the vernier scale I would be glad to run you through the process, just say the word. Just using the Vernier scale should let you measure directly to ).1 or 0.05 of a degree ,or if you are so inclined 3 or 6 minutes which would remove the need to graduate the hand dial, in fact you could even cut in both a decimal vernier and a minutes vernier at different points on the sub base ring.

Measuring directly off of the degree graduations is often a good way of reducing the confusion arising from back lash which can be difficult with worm wheels as the clearance can often vary at different points on the wheel or as a result of a slight eccentricity of the worm.

Are you going to use a disengage mechanism on your worm? you don't often see these on the baby rotary tables but with all the work you are putting in it seems like it'd be a waste not to.

I am about to go to your PDF now and check the calcs for the handwheel graduations.

Best regards
Rick