Commercial 3D printer businesses?
#31
Here's the test.stl file printed that was with the model file. It's supposed to be used to see whether your printer is set up properly for, what he called, bridging but it's actually overhang.
Printed with supports and without supports.

Ed

   

   
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#32
(02-28-2022, 10:57 PM)Highpower Wrote: It's not like you can lay down a bead of molten plastic in mid air.

Oh, but you can.  It's a standard test for how well your printer is set up.

This is one example, and there are literally dozens out there:


   
Full of ideas, but slow to produce parts
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#33
(03-02-2022, 10:41 AM)EdK Wrote: I wish the CAD file was available for the model.

Ed

So do I Ed, so do I...   Sad

I can dig up some dimensions from the machine if you think that will help any.
Willie
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#34
(03-02-2022, 01:05 PM)rleete Wrote:
(02-28-2022, 10:57 PM)Highpower Wrote: It's not like you can lay down a bead of molten plastic in mid air.

Oh, but you can.  It's a standard test for how well your printer is set up.

This is one example, and there are literally dozens out there:

How is that piece oriented as it's being printed though? Standing up as shown in the picture, or is it laying flat on the table?  17428

That is interesting to me though because I have another piece I wanted to get as well. I thought I would give Xometry a shot at it to see how well the process of ordering from them works out. I ordered a similar type of scale or ruler if you will.


.pdf   Tormek USB-GrindingWheel Ruler Drawing v3.pdf (Size: 147.19 KB / Downloads: 7)

Their online quote system pretty much pigeon-holed me into selecting Nylon 12 for the material and a Laser Sintering process "based on the .3mf file and design / nature of the part" that I uploaded to them.  17428

I left it at natural (off white) because I didn't want to spend an extra $30 just to pick a different color. I'm hoping some do-it-yourself 'RIT' dye will work to color Nylon after it's been fused?  Smiley-think005
If nothing else I'll highlight the graduations and markings with a Sharpie to make them readable. The cost was much more down to earth compared the the drip tray though so not a major loss if it doesn't work out for me. Fingers crossed.  Smile
Willie
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#35
(03-02-2022, 01:53 PM)Highpower Wrote:
(03-02-2022, 01:05 PM)rleete Wrote:
(02-28-2022, 10:57 PM)Highpower Wrote: It's not like you can lay down a bead of molten plastic in mid air.

Oh, but you can.  It's a standard test for how well your printer is set up.

This is one example, and there are literally dozens out there:

How is that piece oriented as it's being printed though? Standing up as shown in the picture, or is it laying flat on the table?  17428

It is oriented exactly as pictured.

Certainly not a tutorial on bridging but it can give you an idea on what is possible ... and especially not possible ... Bridging ... until you get your printer tuned up.



It just happened to be the first page listed by google when I searched for "3d printing bridging".
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#36
I'm beginning to think it's all done with witchcraft... Big Grin
Willie
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#37
Willie,

I'm printing the tray now. I used supports because I don't have the knowledge yet to set up my printer for overhangs. I was able to fine tune the supports using a setting in the slicer though.

Ed

   
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#38
(03-02-2022, 05:45 PM)arvidj Wrote: Certainly not a tutorial on bridging but it can give you an idea on what is possible ... and especially not possible ... Bridging ... until you get your printer tuned up.

It just happened to be the first page listed by google when I searched for "3d printing bridging".

I started watching several videos and reading some web sites and (I think) I learned a few more things. Bridging and overhangs are not one in the same. Bridging involves anchoring between two points whereas overhangs are only supported from one side. It's like two people holding up a yardstick between them using only their fingertips vs. one person holding a yardstick horizontally from one end of the stick only with their fingertips. In all the examples of bridging I saw both ends were supported all the way down to the table. I did not see any examples of bridging that started half-way up the part and off of the table. I didn't spend all night looking for such a case though.

From what I saw the trick is to get the material to solidify the instant it comes out of the hot nozzle which requires a lot of air flow to cool the extrusion immediately upon exit from the nozzle. Between having to get the melt temperature just right, getting the cooling ability just right and having to fight gravity the entire time makes me glad I didn't go down the 3D path after all. Not enough time left on my calendar to try to learn it all.  Happyno

Kudo's to the ones that can pull it off though.  Thumbsup
Willie
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#39
(03-03-2022, 12:30 PM)EdK Wrote: Willie,

I'm printing the tray now. I used supports because I don't have the knowledge yet to set up my printer for overhangs. I was able to fine tune the supports using a setting in the slicer though.

Ed

Whatever works for you is fine with me Ed.

Like they said in "Mr. Mom" ~ 220, 221 ~ .38, .39... Whatever it takes. Big Grin
Willie
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#40
Only 17 hours to go.  Big Grin

Ed

   
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