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So I'm assuming I need 45° left and right type knurls with beveled edges, correct?
I may try rigging up some way of beveling the edges on the knurls I have using a Dremel tool with a grinding stone.
Ed
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Make a fitting so that you can use your dremel as a toolpost grinder. Lots of pics out there of people who have done this. Then turn up an arbour to suit.
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
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(01-15-2017, 09:59 AM)EdK Wrote: So I'm assuming I need 45° left and right type knurls with beveled edges, correct?
I may try rigging up some way of beveling the edges on the knurls I have using a Dremel tool with a grinding stone.
Ed
Yes you'll need a right and left knurls for diamond knurling, but 30º knurls are more common than 45º. They produce the typical diamond shape knurl pattern. The pitch I use most is 20tpi, but I also have 25 tpi for a bit coarser pattern. I also have some 35tpi straight knurls which I use a lot.
The last time I chamfered the edges, I just mounted them on a bolt and chucked it up in the cordless drill. All it took was a light touch on the belt sander to do the job.
Tom
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Thanks for the info Tom. I'll try beveling them like you did.
I've got a set of 30° 30TPI and 40TPI knurls for this tool. I got them from McMaster and they're Accu-Trak brand. They don't carry the beveled knurls though. I think I'll pick up a set of 30° 20TPI knurls also.
Ed
EDIT: I have 30° knurls, not 45°.
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(01-14-2017, 05:07 PM)wawoodman Wrote: Darn you, Ed, now I have to finish mine.
A couple of tips I learned while assembling/disassembling the tool.
Mark the .250 -.001 diameter hole for the dowel pins somehow. I just scribed a line across the hole to mark it so I know which way to knock out the pin when necessary.
Measure your dowel pin lengths. Mine are long by about 10 thou on average so they stick out of the knurl holder and prevent it from sliding all the way into the body. I just knocked mine out to grind the ends down to slightly less than the width of the knurl holders.
Ed
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hi ED a job well dune
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