10 inch Lathes**** Oldies but goodies*** need your opinions ASAP
#11
I wonder what the spindle through hole diameter is on the Clausing. As Darren pointed out, the collet close for 4C collets is already sold and gone. The 4C collets have a .950" diameter up to the closing taper and a maximum capacity of 3/4" (19.05mm) stock. That doesn't mean the through hole was under 1", though it may be because the installer chose the 4C over the more common and useful 5C like I have.

EDIT: I hope this is wrong because I can't see how a 4C collet closer tube (which would have to be at least .950" diameter) could fit in an 11/16" (.6875") bore.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/clausing/page4.html

Here's the dimensions for a 4C collet:

http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/C_Collet.html
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#12
Update i was told the SB has flame hardened ways and its the HD model can someone concur?
Btw it weghts approx #800 pounds and the Clausing surprisingly only ways #600 (looks are deceiving ay?

someone on another forum pointed out that the SB has a plain Bering head .. First off what makes a plain Bering head ??
and if so can that be validated?
South Bend Model CL 187A (CTAM #7740)
right now stil leaning towards the SB till I get more fixins and reasons why not if the head bearing are validated as NG than maybe I may re consider looking away

Did anyone catch the pic a page back of the other SB ? Whats size do you think she is ?
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#13
A "plain bearing" is typically made of bronze or babbitt, but in the case of SB it is bronze and provides adjustment to compensate for wear. Go to this page http://www.lathes.co.uk/southbend/page4.html and scroll down to the pic of the bearing.

As to the lathes the Clausing was used in many school shops and held up well from the abuse from the students.

Probably any of the three will suffice for a small home shop machine. One thing that would put me off on all these lathes is the screw on/off spindle nose. If you accidentally reverse the lathe you run the real possibility of unscrewing the chuck and having it take off across the shop. I seriously recommend looking for a D type spindle nose (AKA cam lock). Second best is the L type tapered spindle with the locking collar and key. Spin off is greatly reduced, but not eliminated.
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#14
Up date as far as flame hardened ways . and serial # Here is what I found but it don't speciphy.
Locate the third and final letter in the lathe serial number. This letter will tell you the type of swing in your lathe, the size of the spindle hole and if any special modifications were made to the product. This final letter in the serial number will read as "R", "L", "E", "D", "T", "X", "C" or "K."






Locate the third and final letter in the lathe serial number. This letter will tell you the type of swing in your lathe, the size of the spindle hole and if any special modifications were made to the product. This final letter in the serial number will read as "R", "L", "E", "D", "T", "X", "C" or "K."

now I know I got a bit excited but seems to me this lathe is going to hold up and do much more better than a china 10" anyone dis agree with that statement ?
from what else I read the bearings have shims that are made to wear and can be adjusted .So what should I look for when looking over the lathe? speak now and forever hold yure peace

right now thinking of taking off Monday some reason I cant get her off of my mind ....
I want to make sure im not missing anything when lookin over the lathe besides condition ways, gears, feeds and engagement run out ect....

what is best way to see how tight headstock is and Berings? what can I check and or do to make sure she's in good shape?


Thanks a mill Guys .. ever since I threw out an old craftsman lathe (long story ) its been my dream to get something again .. I dunno why but I feel ill be better suited with an Ole SB heavy 10" than a new china model?

I know everyone likes there Chevy's Chryslers and Fords but do you all agree with that ?

ohh last Q im not gona have 3 phase 220 v only single phase am I scrapping the whole idea ? not sure what type of motor but from other descriptions most are 3 phase .......
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#15
The Southbend with plain bearings is going to be rpm challenged. The link Stan posted shows a max rpm of about 1400, adequate but a little slow for small work.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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#16
You can fix the 3-phase problem with a VFD.

Ed
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#17
(07-17-2015, 09:51 PM)f350ca Wrote: The Southbend with plain bearings is going to be rpm challenged. The link Stan posted shows a max rpm of about 1400, adequate but a little slow for small work.

any ways to increase RPM and solve that?
also what do yall think would be adequate RPM for 10X can I bump it up to at least 2800 Max rpm ?
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#18
(07-17-2015, 10:19 PM)EdK Wrote: You can fix the 3-phase problem with a VFD.

Ed

thanks Guys GREAT im good with all that . Thanks again for all your help
Again 2 -3 More Q's ..lol.. Im getting power out to garage that will be 220 Single phase My new mill will be single phase so most likely the Lathe is the only machine I may need a VFD for . Juts want to concur as the fela said above . If I get a VFD for 3 HP ill be ok for 3HP and less ill be all set with the 1hp South bend ?
anyone know good reasonable source to purchase and I better off getting new?
Now back to lathe bushing's bearings adjustment shims . What is best way to inspect them making sure lathe is tight running true .?
ohh I was also thinking of bringing thread gauge to check a few ranges in gear box make sure it haven't been monkeyed with . As u see that lathe does NOT have Fine carriage adj stop. o well can be nice project that ill be proud of when I make one already came up with a new idea .. But that's for latter down road..
all the other stuff ya can be darn sure ill be checking .. the way I am the sun wil be setting when we finial make the deal ...lol.... Last used car I purchased the guy came out and said im sure you know by know who makes all the parts.....

and last but not least Q anyone look at the south bend lathe a page back ?
http://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/tls/5104380288.html
I think this is a 9" SB what ya all think?

This like one town away ..Got to go check my e mail on other computer as I enquired but this on Fri if he has I can buy it in 2 hours from now ..lol....
I woke up 5 am this am First thing came to my mind is getting a trailer to buy the 10" x 24 SB .. I need to go to work soon and let this settle a bit ask more Q's bout the 10 Heavy SB. Maybe check out the 9"??? should I get that size lathe out of my mind and stick with 10 inch???
anyways if its the Lords will in me purchasing any Lathe I am confident he will direct my steps and make it happen.. Just saying. Of course id like to hear from ya all too thanks again guys .
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#19
I think with plain bearings your probably limited to 1400 or so rpm, thats why they went to rolling bearings.
If its only a 1 hp motor on the lathe it might be cheaper to just replace it with a single phase one. I keep hearing how 3 phase motors run smoother but I've never had surface finish problems with lathes that used single phase motors.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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#20
update on 10"  and  some info on 9 x42"

 Regarding the 9 inch and comparing it to the Heavy 10 SB update . The 10x24 is 220V single phase  so that ends that most likely will run @ 1400-1700 Rms max


 The fella with the 9"  wrote me back sent these pics .I called about 1/2 Hr awaiting a return call to get more details  his wife said they had it 10 years of course bought it from al ole machinist .

what can you say about this model without serial # the tag says 9 x 3' 6" bed (42") from some quick research it looks to be maybe the Model 9-inch "Workshop Lathe and the 9-inch  or  the "Workshop" Precision Lathe. Do you think its the later  #405 Model ? From more reading it may be the beefed up model  the Gap Bed  Model C after 1962 d .lol. which originaly sold for $245 Not 100% on this but suspect it may be this model???

 I can get it for $1000 or less as seen in pics not sure if he has collet closer but seems to have tooling for it .  Dont think it has  a 4 jaw chuck Bc don't see in the pics

what years  do ya think it is ?  what type of head bearings does it have ?

should I stray away from it  lean towards the heavy ten   and or is there something better I should be looking at this size rigidly that perhaps may be able to get more Rpms out of   ?  some reason they caught my eye . the one guys 15 min away .
Sorry for all the Q's , I now im a PIA  
Thanks so much for all your help I wanted to get a Lathe today but will wait on it  to get  the right one. Im a gona be patient and respect  all your suggestions .


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