Cantek 1440, Birmingham, Wilton CT 1440, and others Rebuild

[turbo711]

Yes Edk, that is how it supposed to be, but if I put it there, it won't even be on the corresponding apron gear. I think my apron is different than yours. My leadscrew has 2 holes in it like they tried to put it there, but it didn't work so they drilled another hole. There is also a threaded setscrew hole for a shaft, drilled too close to the edge of the casting in the threading gearbox, like someone made a mistake, then they drilled another hole correctly. Maybe this a early run lathe where they didn't have the production down pat. I don't know. Furthermore, the apron can be moved around on it's two 8mm mounting bolts around .100" before tightening; not too confidence inspiring. But that's the way it worked before so I hope it will be okay. It seems like a lot of weight to be hanging from those bolts.
    I want the gear to be backed up by the shoulder of the shaft, that's why I changed your drawing to work. I placed the gear so it would mesh roughly in the center with it's mate and the apron roughly centered on it's bolts. I then removed it and measured between the gear and the existing shoulder and there was a gap of .700". Luckily, the leadscrew gear teeth are much wider than the apron gear, so the alignment doesn't have to be dead on.   After I get the parts, I can machine a spacer to take up the slack between the thrust washer and crank wheel housing.This should be around .100".

[johnnyc14]

I think before you tighten the apron bolts it would be a good idea to position the apron as close to the headstock end as possible and engage the 1/2 nuts onto the lead screw to ensure best alignment possible since there is some looseness in the bolt holes.

John

[turbo711]

That sounds like an excellent idea John. Any other assembly ideas are welcome. I have never owned a lathe before.
Mark

[EdK]

Here you go Mark.

Just an FYI, that internal thread on the back end of the lead screw is for attaching a washer to prevent you from advancing the cross slide so far that the nut disengages from the lead screw.

Ed

   



  marks_nut.pdf (Size: 9.75 KB / Downloads: 1)

  Marks_leadscrew.pdf (Size: 33.33 KB / Downloads: 1)

[turbo711]

Thanks very much for the drawings Ed. I seem to be missing that bolt and washer. Its good to know what it's for.
    In the meantime I thought I would throw a coat of paint on the base to give it a chance to harden a little while I tend
to going over some more parts...




That's it for now, I have some 12 hour nights to deal with.

[turbo711]

Well I had a chance to do some more on the lathe. This time, the tailstock. I would consider it's condition to be bad. This must be one of those models that has a tailstock/anvil option where you can drill/center parts, but also hammer out a horseshoe on it if you need to...



There are cracks on both sides where the side adjustment bolts are as well as the center of the back. I ordered a product called EZ weld tig wire, specifically designed to weld cast iron. I thought I would start at the back because it is easily accessible.




The only thing that worked well is this diamond grinding/cutoff disk from banggood. Cheap and good; rare these days. Anyway, I "welded" the crack from both sides and also welded some parts on the forward/off/reverse lever to tighten it up a bit
.



See how pretty it looks. Now grind it. Mr. Tig doesn't show you that part...




In the case of the switch casting, I think it will be okay, and the holes will hold more oil!
But, I think I will leave the bolt hole cracks alone, because it is a difficult area and the "welds" are sponge toffee.




Here is a way to remove those little hammer rivets:




And the same method for a broken stop pin:





And here are some more issues with the anvil...
A worn quill slide...




Welded lever...



This won't affect operation, but look at the quality of the cam casting...



There is also a missing gib although I think it is just square stock instead of tapered in this case. I would say the tailstock is in poor condition to say the least, but due to the costs adding up, I will not be replacing it.

I also worked on the headstock. But before I did, I had to contend with the Medusa...



Which isn't as bad as it looks. I think only the 3 contactors will need to be replaced. The transformer, thermal overload relay, and all the fuse blocks look okay. The insulating base plate and box are a different story.

Here are some pics.





Production shortcut (not machining middle holes in lid).



And the bad news is the gears that the speed (1350rpm) was left on for 16 years are chewed.



Everything else seems to be okay including the spindle and bearings.



Now I have to locate contactors and gears. I could throw it back together and listen to the humming, or choose a different speed, but it would always be a splinter in my mind driving me mad...
That's all for now.

[dallen]

heat the castings until all the oil burns out before you weld on them.

are the contactors in youa medusa 24 volt on the coils? I just ordered one for a friend. it came from China but for 25 bucks and I think it had free shipping. If you want it I can look the seller up and send you a link

I have a brand new tailstock quill for a grizzly lathe that has a MT#3 taper in it, I can't use it, bought it thinking/hoping that they would interchange, we can do a deal on it if it measures the same as yours

[turbo711]

Hello Dallen. Yes, they are 24V I think. The transformer indicates 24V output. The link(s) would be welcomed. Here is a pic from Johnnyc14 that shows how it supposed to look:



I might be interested in the quill, but I don't want to put much money in this tailstock due to it's condition. I was thinking of milling the slot wider and making a new pin. My mill in a homemade cnc router though and it doesn't like steel too much...

Mark

[dallen]

no problem on the quill

here's the ebay auction number for the relay

181594962686

and the link
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181594962686?_tr...EBIDX%3AIT

hope it helps out

[EdK]

Here's an exact replacement for the contactor on the right. It has a normally open auxiliary contact. The two on the left have normally closed auxiliary contacts.

http://www.factorymation.com/Products/TE...16-B6.html

They also carry the thermal overload relays.

http://www.factorymation.com/Products/TE...5-to-180A/

Hope this helps some.

Ed